They pin/weld this extended krink brake for the rifle version so it isn’t an SBR. Any speculation on how easy it will be to remove that brake? (obviously after your tax stamp comes in). Hoping they thought to make it easy so as not to damage the threads.
Possible, probably. Easy, definitely not.
Sometimes you can see where the pin is and can just drill it out and clean up the threads after. Or the Yugo imports just had a spot weld connecting the brake to the front sight base.
Angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, dremel with stack of same, and LOTS of patience. Or wait til I can afford one and see how it goes on someone else’s dime 
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Yeah, I just don’t want to mess up the threads, gotta get it setup to throw a can on it 
I haven’t purchased anything pin and welded by PSA yet, can you see the weld?
It seems like it would be doable to me. Ease depending on how deep the penetration is on the weld. I don’t know if they hit it with a TIG with no filler metal or if the pin countersunk into the booster and hit with filler metal.
Either way I would use a file myself and attempt to take the weld off, then hope the pin falls out. If they pound the pin in you might need to file yourself a way to get ahold of the pin with pliers if you have enough room before the threads. If there is no room you could punch the center of the pin, drill it and try to extract it with an easy out. Even though the pins not threaded itself, it would at least get it moving and probably pull out.
Let us know what you end up doing and how it worked out @Freedomfirst556
-Brock
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Why not go with the brace and the threaded (non-pined) muzzle device.
It’s much easier to add the folding stock ……rather than grinding off a weld and removing a pin that might have buggered up the threads.
Just my 2 cents worth.
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Thanks Beers, good tips!
Iznthesky - I did consider that, but still thought it worth asking the question if anyone has seen how they pin their brakes.
@Freedomfirst556 The 105s are drilled through the booster and into the combo block and then a 3/32 pin is dropped in and tac welded on the outside.
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Sounds like we can just grind the weld and pin will drop free? I hope not because that means I have to buy a 105 sooner and I already have more psa wants than freedom bucks.
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Appreciate the info! That’s exactly what I was looking for.
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I imagine it’s hammered in place - grinding is unlikely to allow it to “drop out” of the hole.
An easy out drill bit might could get it out if stuck though…
Wont cold water do the same?
yes…joke. cold water = shrinkage
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Why would it be at an angle? Just make sure the thread pitch is same.