As someone with no experience, I am trying to figure out what is a good ammo for killing varmints.(raccoons, opossums, armadillos, coyotes, etc). I see on PSA different grain bullets, and some that are hollow point, and other varieties that I am unfamiliar with. Any suggestions?
Honestly, out on my farm I just use .22 Thunderbolt 40gr for smaller varmints with the Ruger 10/22. Shoot em in the eye for a quick painless dispatching . Coyotes usually get M193 from the AR.
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Thank you Rufus . . looks like PSA is out of stock on this ammo. Do you have a suggestion for 223, or is that a too small of a caliber?
They’re both .22 cal. What are you running them thru?
I purchased a : PSA 16" MID-LENGTH 5.56 NATO 1/7 NITRIDE 13.5" LIGHTWEIGHT M-LOK MOE EPT RIFLE W/MBUS SIGHT SET
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You’re good with either .223.or 5.56.
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Ok, but this the grain# or hp or jhp make a difference? There seems to be several choices available, not sure the difference.
Thanks Rufus, I appreciate you help.
For example I see a .223 55 grain FMJ, a FMJ-BT, a 55 grain SP, 68 GR HPBT, etc.
Is there one manufacture I should stay away from, or are they all about the same?
For what your intended purpose is, the ammo is less relevant than shot placement. Hollow point or other fast expanding bullet like a VMax is a great option for thin-skinned targets and less likely to do some crazy physics stuff after (if) it exits. Lighter is faster is easier to hit what youre aiming at generally, but realistically, just pick something affordale that you can comfortably burn on practice and you’ll do fine.
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55, 62, all the way up to 75. Tipped or HP.
The FMJ would be for target shooting only IMHO.
I personally do not care for PMC.
@kastaway81 nailed it as well. 
Thank you @kastaway81, great advice.
Thank you @Rufus, more great insight. You do not care for PMC, what brand in your opinion should I consider?
Price point on AAC is hard to pass on. The one I first posted usually drops in every couple days, but it has been a minute since I’ve seen it. Maybe in a couple days.
I really like it though.
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Here’s a really good thread that may help.
It can get confusing, and if it seems too much, don’t overthink it and go with what you’ve got here. @kastaway81 nailed it without going too deep into it.
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Thanks, I will take a look and try to learn!!!
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Won’t be long and someone will ask a similar question to yours and you’ll answer it.
Some abbreviations/terms you are likely to encounter when looking for ammunition:
“FMJ” is an abbreviation for “Full Metal Jacket” - meaning the core of the bullet is completely enclosed in a (usually copper) thin layer of metal (sounds self-explanatory, don’t it?) Some manufacturers use “TMJ” (Total Metal Jacket) - essentially the same thing. Marketing.
“BT” is Boat Tail - meaning the back of the bullet has a bevel instead of being flat. There are advantages to this ballistically and for production.
“HP” is Hollow point “JHP” is Jacketed Hollow Point - a void in the tip, or often, an “overhang” of the jacket - it aids expansion of the projectile.
“SP” is “Soft Point”, sometimes you’ll see “JSP” - much like a jacketed HP, but there is lead left protruding at the tip of the bullet instead of a void. It’s also expanding type, usually used for Hunting/Gametaking in certain states.
“V-MAX” is a Hornady Bullet Manufacturing trade name - it’s a Hollow Point with a tiny, pointy plastic tip filling in the void - aids in cartridge cycling of autoloading rifles/pistols, gives a better, flatter Ballistic curve, and in tubular-magazine rifles keeps the tip of the bullet from indenting the primer and possibly setting-off the cartridge in front of it due to the shock of recoil/handling. Hornady isn’t the only bullet/ammo manufacturer to use plastic tips, but if you see that term it’s Certain they’re using Hornady’s bullets.
A Cannelure is a ring around the bullet, pressed-into the jacket (if it’s not a solid projectile) that allows for a cartridge-mouth crimp that secures the bullet better against shock or mishandling - it also affects the “tension” of the bullet, and case-pressure when the powder has been ignited - but that’s beyond the scope of this explanation.
.223 is the major nominal diameter of the barrel of many AR-15s (the “Caliber”) - while .223 Remington is a cartridge made in that caliber, virtually externally identical to the 5.56x45 NATO cartridge. You probably have a rifle chambered in 5.56 or .223 Wylde (another Chambering - but NOT a cartridge: there is no such .223 Wylde cartridge) and can safely shoot virtually any factory-made .223/5.56 cartridge.
Bullet weight is a steep, slippery slope. Generally speaking, for a given barrel length, the most-efficient/accurate barrel twist rate (1:9 - 1 complete twist in 9”, 1:8 - 1 twist in 8”, 1:7; et.al.) must be faster (smaller second number = faster twist) the heavier the bullet.
Your barrel is probably 1:7 or 1:8, and if in a 16” carbine is sufficiently fast enough twist to stabilize virtually any factory ammo, up to 75-grain. Depending upon the load, you may or may not see accuracy diminish slightly in lighter bullets (45-55grain). Every barrel is different.
In theory, you choose your bullet TYPE based on what you want to accomplish with it - expanding for Hunting, FMJ for plinking/Target, etc. Then choose your WEIGHT based on velocity, twist, and [intended] target (that includes “distance to target”).
But Real Life never really works out that way….
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Every reply here is informative and respectful. Way to go guys! It’s great to see.
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Wow, thank you AirHawk for taking the time and being so descriptive, amazing information. Just confirms what I thought about this website and company, all great people.
Thanks again, seriously, thanks.
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