If any are interested…
I am working on a mask/edge guard for a small axe. Most of the principals from sheath making apply.
I originally learned sheath making from a book and video of Bob Loveless. Bob Loveless custom knife making.
If you skip to 1:24:00 you get the wet formed custom fit, snap retention sheath. Please forgive the long video, the bulk is Bob making his classic drop point hunter.
So here is my mask, welt glued in and retaining strap cut to general shape. I have a stack of other books on leather work, though I never got into leather carving or putting much decoration on sheaths. I prefer to use cereal box type cardbard for my patterns.
If there is intrest, I can post the rest of the build. I do hand stitching using a saddle stitch. The retaining strap gets attached, mask is folded over and stiched, then the male side of the snap gets installed. Retaining strap is dampened, then pulled tight and pressed on the snap (this prevents loose retention as the leather stretches over time). The snap leaves an indentation that I use to center punch the rivet hole for the female side of the snap.
Above are a back stitched pukko sheath with kydex liner. This was a custom knife gifted to my wife and we decided to go with a traditional Scandinavian style sheath.
Leather cover for a Falkniven DC4 sharpening stone, as my pup chewed up the onriginal it came with.
A traditional mountain man sheath for cross draw carry, this was the second sheath I made about 18 years ago.
These picture show the retention strap atachment.
The saddle stich or box stitch uses 2 needles, one on each end, synthetic yellow sinew used (aka waxed nylon).
Below is the grove tool, I’m cutting a shallow line from stich hole to stich hole so the thread sits below the surface of the leather. This was done on the retention strap to lay out my stich pattern, visible in a later image. Also visible, are groves cut with a V- notch tool, this helps the leather conform to the top of the axe/hatchet head.
Below, the strap is stiched in place and I’m cutting the thread flush with the surface. The saddle stich starts and ends 3 holes back from the end of a run, in this image the line shown is double stiched.
I hit a good stop point.
I intially wanted to double row stich the welt in place. The second row would have been too close to thr cutting edge so it was eliminated.
I used a stylis to transfer the rough line tracing over my template welt. I had to asjust my grove tool and cut the line for stitching on the show side. The a spaceing wheel was used to space out the stitch holes.
@papabearknives
I don’t hate doing leather work, it just takes a while and my hands suffer. I wish I could justify a leather stitching machine. This is the first in several years doing leather work.
Kydex/thermoformed plastics are easier, just more planning to build space and retention where it needs to be.
Nice work. Did leather for a few years back in the 80’s. I made some nice things, belts, wallets, patches, etc. You can never sell anything you make for anywhere near what time and craftsmanship you put into a piece. You keep them and use them or give them away to people you care about.
Old co-worker, nicknamed mom found a knife on a trail ride. Tuned the knife up and made a solid sheath in chocolate brown for her. No cost as it was just going to be gifted to one of her kids or grand childeren when she pases. Only request was her intitals be burnished on the body side of the sheath.
Sicilian women with knives scare the crap out of me.
@JaydonMccoy
Tandy leather
Another leather vendor online that I’m unable to find the name for at the moment.
Local tac shops/feed supply stores
Local swapmeet
I haven’t worked leather in a bit but these are some that I would use. There are other places such as Hobby Lobby, Joans, & Michaels crafting shops that MIIGHT have what your looking for as well just be prepared to pay more for that privilege.
Did leatherwork back in the mid 1980’s, none since then. Rewarding to do and admire and gift. You cannot charge what you actually put into it, unless money is no object to the customer
I just bought a leather working kit. I have never done any real leather work. There are times when I have some holsters from WWI & WWII that may need some TLC. Do you have any tips or tricks that you would be willing to share with a new guy just starting out? I need to watch some YouTube videos because I hate to admit it but I am clueless on what some of the tools are even used for. I wish that I had seen this thread before I bought my leather working kit so I could have gotten some advice on a really good kit. I really don’t know how good my kit is going to be until I start using it. I got this kit off of Amazon. I already have a good bit of leather sewing needles and waxed thread that I bought years ago sewing on leather steering wheel covers.
BUTUZE Leather Working Tools, Leather Tool Kit, Practical Leather Craft Kit with Waxed Thread Groover Awl Stitching Punch Hole for Leathercraft Beginner or Adults Gifts - Comes with Tool Manual https://a.co/d/6Ontecy
@1911
Not seeing much additional stuff needed, thekit looks like it’s got what you need.
For old holster repair look up saddle stitch videos.
Tandy leather/ Leather Factory
Weaver leather
Have some good tutorials.
Edit to add:
If you buy leather to make anything stay away from chromium died leather. It has acidic properties that will rust knives or guns.
Vegetable or Veg tanned leather is safe for holsters & sheaths.
