That’s one thing I wish they would fix. It’s really a Holosun K cut, which is a modified RMSC cut with shorter front lugs and no rear ones. All K cuts will fit an RMSC cut optic, but a to-spec RMSC cut will not fit K optic without a plate or modifications.
I asked about this before and they wanted to just keep it as RMSC cut because I guess more people know what that is, but they could just say RMSC/(Holosun)K cut and take care of both sides.
Round count/reliability update - I am at approx 320-ish rounds in the Micro (I had a couple of partial mags I ran just finishing off various batches of ammo, so it’s not going to be exactly 320, but around there). I am pleased to report that so far, I have:
100% reliability with the PSA 15 round mag.
100% reliability with my various Glock 43x 10 round factory mags.
Ammo types I have run:
Handloads (CCI magnum small pistol primers for all)
115 FMJ RN (unknown bullet manufacturer - Power Pistol, light load, very dirty)
115 TMJ RN (Berrys - Power Pistol, light load, very dirty)
124 TMJ RN (Berrys - Power Pistol light loads, and Zip standard loads, PP loads very dirty)
124 FMJ FN (Rocky Mountain Reloading match winners - various standard loads of Zip, Sport Pistol, and Silhouette)
147 FMJ RN (Rocky Mountain Reloading match winners - +P loads of Silhouette)
124 Hornady XTP (Power Pistol, +P)
147 Hornady XTP (Silhouette +P)
115 Speer Gold Dot (Power Pistol +P)
124 Speer Gold Dot (Silhouette +P and Power Pistol +P)
I have not really cleaned it in any organized way, although I did wipe some of the gunk from Power Pistol off of easy to reach places on the frame/trigger bar using the corner of a paper towel, and I have put a few drops of Slip 2k in the slide-rails and where the trigger bar rides against the connector.
That’s all looking really (really) good to me from an reliability standpoint. I have a couple weeks off over Christmas, I’ll see if I can’t get it over 1k rounds in that time and report back.
OK, I went a little nuts this afternoon, and I have now officially lost count of how many rounds I have through the Micro (I quit counting at 500, and I went a while after that). Enough that I’d trust it with my life at this point, as reliability with both the PSA 15 round mag, and all 4 of my 10 round factory Glock mags has been 100%.
This is the collective pile of range-fodder brass from my 43x, my 43x MOS, and the Micro Dagger over the last month or so (doesn’t include my matched carry brass that I keep in a different container).
So, around 800/900 ish rounds (and 2 or 3 times that in dry fires) in, I think I have my first issue with my Micro dagger. It seems the firing pin and cruciform (point where the trigger bar interfaces to the firing pin) are wearing on each other notably, and causing the trigger pull to degrade on an ongoing basis. When I first got the Micro, it was the lightest/crispest/nicest trigger on any of my Daggers (and I have some very nice/worked on triggers on several of the full size ones). Now, it’s the heaviest and grittiest of all my Daggers (about on par with a factory Glock trigger now, LOL). I took some close-up pics best as I could with a cell phone to try and show the problem(s).
First up, the point where the firing pin interfaces with the cruciform - note that divot on the left side of the pic. That was not there when it was new.
Now the back end of the cruciform - note the raised/sharpened ridge on the left side that corresponds to that divot we see on the firing pin.
A backed-out photo of the cruciform (a bit better focus).
Top view of the cruciform - note the wear pattern on the right hand (if you were at the rear of the gun) side. Also note the slight protrusion on the left side that corresponds loosely to the firing pin divot. It kind of looks looks like the pin swiping the cruciform during slide cycling is wearing into the cruciform, creating both a sharpened edge, and as it wears away more on one side than the other, a protrusion.
It’s not the worlds biggest deal, about 5 mins with some ultra fine grit sharpening/polishing stones should smooth the rough points out, so mostly just making a note here that I observed this in case it helps someone else out.
Update - after I disassembled the Micro, I notice that the angle where the cruciform contacts the firing pin seem off - it’s on a fairly sharp diagonal angle, which means the edge of the cruciform where it touches the firing pin is like a sharp knife edge. See photos.
Stock Glock 43x (MOS if it matters) - look at the angle of the surface that meets the firing pin.
Same photo with some red lines drawn on the axis/angle of the surface where the cruciform hits the firing pin, to make it more obvious for folks who don’t know what they are looking at.
Now, all that said, I checked 2 of my full size Daggers (including the one with the best trigger I’ve ever had on a glock-like striker fired gun), and they both show the non-vertical angle on the cruciform that I am noting on the Micro dagger trigger bar. So I’m not sure that this constitutes any kind of problem - again, just making notes that may help others here.
All that said, I’d appreciate if @mattbbb14 or @GuitarGuy or one of the other more plugged in at PSA folks would take a look at this and see if they have any thoughts or opinions here.
Seems to me that PSA made a small change, perhaps to avoid Glock’s “perfection” trademarks and such (the “perfection” of Glock refers to the internals as i understand it).
A couple more now that the whole gun is apart and it’s easier to get good close-ups.
An extra-close close up of the firing pin surface that shows much more clearly than previous one. Here we can see that the pin is both developing a divot all the way across (deeper on the one side), and getting some rough edge wear developing right on the crest/edge where the cruciform slips off when releasing the striker.
Super-close up of the cruciform as seen by the firing pin - definitely only getting contact at the leading edge, and the slightly uneven wear on that edge mirrors the pattern we see on the striker surface.
Agreed – if it works, it’s not an issue. As much as anything I’m just documenting my Micro adventure here, since it’s all-new and this exactly the kind of info I wish I could find when I’m playing with a new toy. That said, in this case, I don’t like my trigger getting heavier and grittier over time, so I am going to pay extra attention to the polish job on the two surfaces and see if I can’t put this to bed once and for all.
Yeah I’ve never seen a properly working firearm trigger get heavier and grittier with rounds fired, except for fouling. Which clearly isn’t the case here.
Also, let me clarify. The trigger is still well within the realm of acceptable for a factory Glock. It didn’t break or become unserviceable or anything. I just noticed that when I picked up the gun when it was new it was the nicest Glock (ish) trigger in my collection, and now it feels like a factory 43x.
So, I polished it up a bit tonight to take the hard edge off the cruciform, and smooth out the rough spots that had been created on the striker. That seemed to pretty much take care of that. The trigger isn’t overall 100% back to where it was the day I got it, but then I’ve also manually touched surfaces that would normally be cut on a machine to perfect angles, so I’m sure some wear-in needs to happen even after my polish job. I was going to experiment with a Lone Wolf heavy trigger return spring from a full size, but I decided I wanted to see what all my polish job had done independent of any other changes, and I’ll want to run it this way till the parts wear back in - so that test may have to wait a while.
Back to shooting it and dry firing it a bunch - I’ll report back once I have more to report.
I decided to do a test of swapping in a Lone Wolf 6lb trigger return spring from a full size to see if/how that improved the trigger on the Micro, assuming they’d be the same size. However, they are NOT THE SAME. The trigger return spring on the Micro is shorter, smaller, and has some kind of foam insert (the reason for which, I could not figure out). See pics.
Micro Dagger spring left, Lone Wolf 6lb spring right (I also compared to a factory Glock spring from a G19, and it is exactly the same size as the Lone Wolf spring).
The foam insert visible in the Micro Dagger spring.
The insert could possibly help keep the spring straight, prevent bending. Not that the coiled springs are the easiest to bend out of place, but I have done it before.
I tried to replace the slide release with an extended as mine is extremely hard to depress. It is more like a regular Glock slide release than the Glock 48 slide release, especially the attached spring. Would a Glock 48 slide release work in the Micro Dagger?
One thing I noticed about the micro is that even though the texture looks similar to the regular dagger, it feels so much grippier than my full size dagger. Even though the frame is a lot smaller it feels more secure than my full size. We’ll see how the texture does when i get my slide in and get some rounds thru it. Also I have to agree that the micro feels so much better than the 43x frame. The pinky hook and undercut along with texture under the trigger guard and on the side of the frame make my hands lock onto it. Feels like it was designed for human hands and not just a rounded block with little squares for “texture”.