This thread is for posting pics of refinished or painted guns. Post what you have, ask questions, etc.
First up:
Gunskins ( http://www.gunskins.com ) is an easy way to change your firearms looks. Precut vinyl peices go on with a hair dryer or heat gun.
I did my 6.8 in multicam:
Rattle can is much easier and you can make it unique. I did my ar10 in a variety of steps. I first taped the end of the barrel and the trigger. I removed the BCG just in case paint got in the upper, although it would be minimal.
Base layer:
Stripes:
Another color:
Used pinestraw and a lighter color for pattern/breakup:
Final:
Templates/stencils are another option. I used a tigerstrip stencil from Freedom Stencils ( https://www.freedomstencils.com ) for my 104. It came with 3 sheets. I freehanded a second mag using cut up painters tape. You put on one layer, then spray. Then add a second stencil layer and spray a different color. 3rd layer and third color, etc.
Thanks Brotha! I appreciate you starting the thread.
My personal concerns;
I suck with ideas.
I’m more mechanical and not the artsy type.
I’m scared to take spray paint to an expensive gun.
General concerns;
How long does it last.
Solvents melting paint and causing a sticky gooey mess.
What it looks like in your hand compared to a pic on the internet.
I’ve seen many and I just cant figure out how they did it. I did notice that one magazine in your other thread was just masking tape ripped up in strips. I can do that but I’m not sure if I can lay out a good pattern without it looking like a drunk kid did it . I’ve seen someone else on here used a net and it looked damn good. I’m familiar with leaves and pine needles and stuff because I’ve seen that on kayaks and trucks, etc in the past. But still, so many other designs I’ve seen on here baffle my mind (yeah I know, it doesn’t take much to baffle me 
)
I’m so down to start Cerakoting but I know time wont allow that now. I have way to many things going.
The first gun is the hardest to paint…krylon will wear off with use. If you want a more permanent solution you have to go with Cerakote.
I would argue that worn rattlecan looks even better than new. More character. Definitely cerakote for long lasting though.
Good point! I can agree with that. So much so that the “distressed” look is very popular for that exact reason.
Ive used brownells alumahyde on some stuff. Its decent seems like, as long as you apply it correctly and let it cure long enough.
Cerakote requires a lot more prep and setup, The Wife dabbles in it a bit - AND I cannot recommend Enough the use of a Respirator and positive ventilation. That stuff is The. Worst. Paint. Vapour you will ever have the rare-misfortune to inhale. Whether Bake-on or Air Cure.
Forgot to add…laundry/mesh bags work well as a pattern also.
This guy has a few relevant videos.
Blued several PSA 1911 frames today as well as a Norinco and some other parts. Sadly a trigger got mixed in, which is no more. You cant put aluminum in steel blueing solution…
2 were duracoated. They got sandblasted. Then everything was bead blasted.
They will sit in oil overnight and then tomorrow i will work on assembly.
Neat!
I’d love to get some step by steps for blueing. I have cheapy old Belgian top break I was working on for practice, I managed to remove the majority of the rust but I’m at a loss when it comes to blueing… See pics
Before cleaning the rust off.
After
I’ve gotten a lot out of Larry’s videos.
https://m.youtube.com/results?sp=mAEA&search_query=Larry+potterfield+blueing
Thanks!
That said - a complete Re-Blue using the “cold blue” method, is going to be Taxing to your body and soul. It can be done - but it’s not going to be easy. I would look for a couple quarts of “Oxpho Blue” if you’re going to attempt it. The small bottles you get at BassPro aren’t gonna cut it.
As much as you need done you need to take it to a gunsmith. Hot Bluing 1 item is cost prohibitive. Cold bluing can be done but is more rust prone.
