Will this Wheeler kit have everything I need to build stripped lowers?
Is anything else absolutely required?
Is anything else not absolutely required but would be nice to have?
I have this kit brand new in the box that’s never been opened courtesy of my father that passed away. I guess he can watch from above and I’ll do the work.
The image is hard for me to see, but here is what i use:
Vice
Reciever blocks (looks like that kit has them)
Gunsmith brass hammer
Clevis pin for installing front take down pin
Tape for receiver so you dont mar it up
Roll pin punches
Allen wrenches or screw driver for grip install
Armorers wrench for castle nut and barrel nut
“This 7-piece Armorer’s Kit contains the best tools available and will enhance any user’s ability to work on any AR. Essentials Kit includes: AR15 Combo Tool, Torque Wrench, Upper Vise Block Clamp w/ Gas Tube Alignment Tool, Pivot Pin and Roll Pin Installation Tool, Mag Well Vise Block, AR -15 Adjustable Receiver Link, and a custom fitted carrying case.”
If you didn’t already have the essentials kit I would have suggested the Ultra kit instead for having everything you would need. If you don’t already have one Wheeler’s punch kit will come in handy as well. Do you already have a solid vise to use? This is something else you will need, a 1/2" or 3/8" breaker bar(depending on AR Wrench point size) will be handy and save your torque wrench till needed.
Are you just building the lower? Because you can build a lower with an old swiss army knife. Building an upper requires a lot of specialized tools, all of which seem to be included in your armorer’s kit.
Do keep in mind the wheeler Mag adapter is useless for anything but cleaning, you can not apply and tq of anykind to it or it will break in about 1./10 of a sec. I’m not sure why they show it in a vice next to a tq wrench
Good point. I’m new to this but ive already seen several pics of guys using wood. So I’ll just shave a 2x4 and not use the plastic block. Good point and I bet I’d break it. Im that guy that breaks everything lol.
I actually have the plastic ones for the ar10 and ar15, whats odd about your photo is if you look at the bottom of the magwell adapter, it has thumb screws, these are to mount it in their vice which I also have and actually calling it a vice is comical. I use it just for mounting scopes and what not. I use the nylon blocks and a regular std bench mounted vice.
And as others mentioned, brass punches, The TQ wrench , AR tool etc, at the end of the day the gun is so simple the only real work is making sure the barrel is torqed properly. everything else is simple as it gets.
The biggest thing to remember when building these things is not to get crazy and buy parts from 20 different companies. buy a matched uppper/lower, and keep it simple. I use std mil -spec buffers/springs, non adjustable gas blocks, quality barrels, quality triggers, a good bcg, and I never have an issue, and you’ll never know the difference.
While adjustable Gas Blocks have their place, they can very easily screw you up and cause all sorts of cycling issues, when messing with them, and I’ve yet to use or need one. They claim reduced recoil, wear, carbon buildup blah blah blah. Recoil? theres not an AR including 308s that have any recoil to speak of, and in the AR15 regarless of round the recoil is so mild its a joke. Shoot a hundred rounds of 300 winmag from a bolt action without a muzzle brake and thats recoil. lol
My most useful tool is a magnetic parts tray. Amazing how little parts love to try to roll away when you’re not looking. And when you’re not using it, it can be slapped on the tool bench leg for storage.
I’d also add an inexpensive set of center punches or a spring loaded center punch for staking your castle nut. I’ve done some pretty nasty looking ones with an old screwdriver and a hammer and have since evolved to the spring loaded center punch method.
Grab a box of cheap gallon zip-top bags for working in when you install springs and detents so whey they become projectiles they stay in the bag and don’t fly away.
If you’re feeling froggy, you can pick up a #4-40 tap and some matching stainless cap screws for the takedown detent/spring; I got tired of trying to fight that and just now tap all my lowers for the takedown pin capture.
Add to that a tip-resistant adult beverage container for your workbench.
on the magnetic parts tray. I got a couple from Harbor Freight for about 4 bucks each. My hands and fingers are not as agile as they once were and my eyes are not so great either. Saves me a lot of aggravation and cussing trying to find a spring or roll pin that decided to go for a walk.
You kids are spoiled rotten now days. I would have done ALOT for some of the AR tools you have available. Geoff Who graduated from USAOC&S Aberdeen Proving Ground, as a Small Arms Repairman in 1972, US Army, Private E-2 (Mosquito wings)
it has everything needed, except for the small tool to install the front takedown pin… and for that i’ve used numerous things from a razor blade, a clovis pin, and finally dedicated pin install tools. to save you headache the price on this one and use is simple and inexpensive. :
now i know you have those tools your pop bought ya before he passed, but if it were me, i’d only use a few things out of that kit, and go with listed above. the roll pin punches for the bolt hold open catch alone are worth the $ and less headache. not to mention that it has a pusher for the trigger guard, and other roll pin punches for the rest of the roll pins both starter pins and regular pin punches.
All great stuff. Thanks for the tips. So I see I’ll most likely use just a few things out of the kit. A punch set will be on my list, it’s something I’ve needed several times over the years and I just sacrifice misc tools or drill bits, etc.
On a side note. I went to pick up an old school china hutch on Craigslist today and the guy had a bunch of stuff (they bought and sold auction items)… Anyways, he had a nice sturdy old school vise that I picked up for $60. Way better than stopping at harbor freight for a cheapy one.
Can’t wait to make a matching 5.56 thats going to be the twin of my S&W 15-22 pistol.
i put together with Palmetto upper they had on sale and i had a spikes Tactical lower laying around. I also picked up a couple of Palmetto complete lowers for $125 each some months back and a 20" 224 Valkyrie upper. You can get some real deals if you time things right.
Ahh the days of the M16A1, I saw one sell for $32,000 not too long ago. Even the old slick side civilian AR15s of the day are bringing crazy money. Question for you. How did those old pencil barrels hold up to full auto fire? Even the later heavy barrels heat up in a heartbeat and lose all accuracy till they cool.