I’m in the process of assembling my first AR. It took many years to secure a high enough paying union job and negotiate for the funds for such a project. I started with a PSA M4A1 stripped lower I’m still working on that I plan to top with a PSA 16" Mid Length MOE upper. I have all the lower parts planned out except for one assembly.
What weight buffer and spring are any of you using for a PSA 16" barrel with a Mid Length gas system? I’ve read and watched many reviews on the PSA classic Mid Length complete uppers and every one has reported that it’s “over gassed”. I’m sure it may need more tuning once it’s up and running but what should I start with? I appreciate any input any of you may have.
Thank you for your time and I hope I haven’t taken too much out of your day.
I don’t use buffers or springs anymore, I use the Armaspec SMB exclusively in all of my ARs. Depending upon the caliber each individual gun shoots, I use an H or H2. Except for 9mm. Obviously you use that exclusively in a 9mm AR. All of my ARs are mid length except for my two pistols. From top to bottom is Carbine, H, H2, H3, and 9mm.
I think is funny that I left the “southland” and eventually ended up where they up here call it the “northland”. I miss it during the winter but both my firearms are considered illegal in California, that’s just two more reasons why I can’t move back, hence “Californian Refugee”. Hell, my dad still lives there and tells me I’m better off never moving back.
I was aboard the USS Independence (CV-62) at the time so I must admit I missed that one but I made it home in time to catch the Northridge 'quake of '94.
Thank you all very much for all your help and kind welcome.
Does it sound reasonable that I chose the 3.8 ounce H(H1) buffer that can handle the “extra gas” but still cycle? If the BCG or FCG ends up getting beat up or the recoil is horrendous, I can l step up to a H2?
Yes, I’m having fun building my M4-forgery but her true purpose will be self defense of course. My main priority is reliability. I’m not expecting to make many (if any) 500 yard shots.
If you’re buying a kit to assemble, use the buffer included. It will run just fine. If you feel like spending a couple extra bucks, I also like the H2. I’m not a Spikes fanboy, but their H2s are reasonably priced and don’t have weights shaking around in them. That’s the other thing, you can actually adjust the weight of some buffers, even the cheapies.
Hell, he could just buy 2 tungsten weights and start with 1 then go to 2 if needed. PSA buffer weights can be swapped by r n r the roll pin. Just make sure you install them in the right order.
That is what I was thinking. Start with a H1 and if nessisary, order a second tungsten weight and replace one of the steel weights. So I’m guessing that I install the second tungsten weight next to the first one?
As others have mentioned, H1 or H2 buffers for sure. Ejection pattern will tell you pretty much everything as to how your rifle’s gas is running. Ideally a 2:30-3 o’clock ejection is optimally gassed. Any bit forward is overgassed, and ejection rearwards of 3:00 is typically undergassed.
Thank you all again for the helpful advice and because of that help, I just ordered the parts (different supplier) necessary to complete my PSA M4A1 lower of my M4-orgery build. I can keep all of you posted and even post pictures if anyone is interested.
