ballistol
I forgot one thing, When I’m using solvents, especially Hoppes, I make sure I’m wearing Nitrile gloves. Anybody else take that safety precaution? Solvents can be nasty.
Honestly, no. My hands are covered in solvent and oil. My son says it could cause reproductive harm, but what does he know. That kid has 1 eye, walks funny, has a speech impediment and takes the short bus to school so I dont pay him much attention.
Funny thing about solvents is they also break down the protective oils in your skin making it easier for whatever nasty chemicals you’re trying to remove penetrate your skin and get into your system.
A guy at the range brought a Borescope and showed me the inside of my 6.5 Creedmoor 24 inch Aero Precision and 308 24 inch AR Parts barrels.
The 308 is almost brand new. the 6.5 Creedmoor had some interesting looking pitting type corrosion.
And lead.
CLP because the gov’t said it’s the best!.. Just kidding!! I usually try to avoid what the gov’t says is the best.
I’ve been using FrogLube for a long time, and it makes cleanup pretty minimal if you can apply it per their recommendations. It is totally non-toxic. However, I’ve been moving toward a gun grease for lubrication, since a rifle is an open system (oil will just run through it).
I wear nitrile gloves, the chemicals will definitely irritate your skin. Does mine at least.
Also use gun grease, got a small bottle of remingtons try also.
Clean the bore with MIL-C-372B Rifle Bore Cleaner for the corrosives. Hoppe’s or Mineral Spirits otherwise. Low viscosity water displacing preservative oil ( aka Spindle or Turbine circulating oil) for storage or lubrication.
On the tough stuff i use Hoppes Black, and Lucas CLP and oil for the rest.
School of the American Gunner is the YouTube channel
I bought a gallon of USGI CLP back in my 20s, I’m 58 and will die before I use it all. I have USGI LSA as well.
Shooter Lube is good stuff. No odor. But I sometimes miss the smell of Hoppes No.9 and Breakfree CLP. I had a bottle of Hoppes leak in my drybox. It ate up the metal from my brass cleaning rods, but it didn’t touch the plastic box or aluminum rods.
CLP, boresnake, hi temp wheel bearing grease, paper towels
Ammonia doesn’t get along too well with copper-based alloys….
Search lubrication. I saw his post a minute ago.
Gloves?
Those solvents are like disinfectants for the cuts on your hands 
Hoppes was what I was taught as a kid to use.
Switched to breakfree clp in my 20’s. Did a corrosopndent gunsmithing course through NRI (National Radio Institute) around this time.
Tried frog lube and noticed a visible slowing of bolt cycling in AR pattern rifles in our winter conditions, 30 to 10 deg F (as did most of my shooting cohorts). Now I use frog lube paste as an assembly lube for roll pins and solid pins.
Lucas gun clp & gun grease are undergoing evaluation at present. No noted issue with grease in my dagger, cleaning 300-400 rounds. Not had the grease bake off like oil (hopps, remington lucas) on a hot barrel. I have noticed the normal slide to barrel wear is deminished with the grease (on handguns dagger & glock).
One of the guys I worked with at the second gun store was a licensed gunsmith. He said they did a mix of molly lube & motor oil for a lube they were taught in the gunsmithing school he went trough. I made a small jar to try out. It works, oil flows where lube is needed, moly sticks at high friction points.
Also got a quart of mobile 1 & quart of ATF fluid for gun lube and solvent. Have not played much with this combo. Per a buddy, dunk your bolt (AR) in ATF, scrub with a nylon brustle brush, wipe with paper towel then lube with motor oil.
Also ran some Slip 2000 CLP and EWL (Extreme Weapons Lube) fror a few years. It worked well.
I tend to default to the Breakfree CLP at present. I am seeing good results from the lucas products but I’m only a year or so into evaluation.
Due to getting most of the products as a shop employee, and not wanting to give 3rd party advice I tested the above. Retail on some gun lube and cleaners remind me of printer toner, may as well be laced with gold or platinum for the outrageous prices I see.
I have bore snakes .22 or 556/.223 (spicifially got to speed up wheel gun cylinder cleaning),
38/.357, 9mm, .40S&W/10mm, .308, 20ga & 12ga.
I was taught with a multisection rod and the assortment of brushes/patch hoders in the all caliber Hoppes kit dad had. I got a set of brshes & jags with the NRI course. I have prefered jags since that point for patches.
Also picked up klean bore pocket pistol kits as they had a jag, bush and bore mop.
Picked up a one piece cleaning rod when I got my .308.
I must have 10 bulk pack of cleaning patch material. I have noticed the bulk patch bags no longer have the cut to size guide printed on the bag. I’ve cut enough to know ball park size on patches at this point.
Forgive my OCD in looking for a better product for cleaning and lubing firearms. ~37 years of gun cleaning.
Edit for spelling corrections.
I use Hoppes to clean the barrel, CLP to clean the slide, Lucas Gun Oil on the rails, and CLP to coat the inside of the barrel (make sure you put a patch through afterwards).