“Anybody Else Break their Press working Nickel Plated Brass ?”
I can hear people thinking, “I bet he has a Lee Press”.
I had a 308 die, with the de-priming tip broken off, that I used for re-sizing.
I used it to re-size some Nickel Plated brass … and then the problems started.
Basically that particular die, with any brass 308 brass … and I would STILL break the screw that holds the handle assembly together.
i.e. re-sizing about 100 Nickel Plated 308 brass, did something to the die itself, so that I had to retire that die (let the die die ?), and buy a new (cheap) Lee die.
Lee presses are fine. I’ve done 10k+ of all types and calibers on mine. Never had a die do that though. My guess is something gouged the inside of the die causing some excess friction or some dried lube build up on the inside or the resizing pin bent.
And you know this already but use plenty of lube! Especially when resizing brass
.308 is in another league….compared to reloading 5.56 or any pistol Ammo. I have reloaded untold numbers of 5.56, 45 auto, 9mm, 44 magnum……but that .308……kicked my @$$ every time I tried loading it. Parts would break, brass would get stuck in the dies…I eventually stopped reloading…….er attempting to reload .308. I experienced one catastrophe after another when loading that stuff. I ended up spending more $$$ on dies and parts than the finished product was worth.
If your reloading.308……YOUR DA MAN ! ! You’ve got skill. I couldn’t do it.
@davidlandonjr is correct - use plenty of lube, including some inside the case neck on occasion. Also start with clean-ish brass. I have no issues with .308. Resizing .50 BMG once-fired LC brass from a loose-chambered M2 has shown me the importance of case lube.
I’ve been reloading .308 for years and have never had a problem! I do clean my brass more than most (I am currently in love with the BoreTech case cleaner, which leaves the brass like new, inside and out!), so perhaps that has something to do with it. I use the spray lube when sizing brass with a carbide die and RCBS Case lube for use in standard steel dies. For the .308 & .223 brass (including nickel plated brass) I normally use a Small Base die, unless its for a specific firearm (such as my TC pistol). I also trim all once fired brass to minimum length. Using too much lube in the neck area will leave dents in the case and some lube should also be used in inside the neck. Nickel plated brass can leave bits of the nickel plating in the die, which can imbed into die wall. This can usually be removed with a tight fitting nylon brush and cotton patch with a dab of JB non-embedding bore cleaner. However, those bits don’t usually make the cases any harder to size, they just leave obvious scratches in the cases, brass or nickel. If the scratches are not removed with the JB then they have to be returned to the manufacturer to be refurbished.
Otherwise, I can see no reason that anyone would have any problems sizing. Perhaps not using enough lube on the neck, shoulder and base? Just watch for a build up of lube and dents in the case… if you do get this, simply running a nylon brush with a patch should clean it right out. Beyond that, I’m at a loss as why anyone would have any problems with .308 that are not the same potential problems you might have with any other rifle case (e.g., Berdan primed brass will snap off the recapping pin, however, I decap all brass before cleaning, as I like the primer pockets clean). Beyond that, I’m afraid I don’t have any other hints!
Cheers,
crkckr
