I have ventured into reloading the 5.7x28 . I have done around 600 SS197 clones and a few 35 grain reloads using previously fired FN brass. The 200 or so SS197 clones that I have shot seem to run well in my rock. So far accuracy is at least as good as the factory SS197 rounds. I had some issues at first with resizing the previously fired brass but once you understand what it needs to be and get the sizing die dialed in it goes pretty well. I have a Magneto Speed crono coming this week, I hope to have some velocity info to share in the next week or two.
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I would love a list of what you are using, I’m planning on getting into it this year.
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Ill work on that for you. Warning it is a bit labor intensive, you may save a small amount of $$ doing it yourself as long as your labor is free. Start saving brass, I believe it may become valuable more and more as this cartridge continues to gain popularity.
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I have a big bag of saved casings. I am a total novice/noob when it comes to reloading. Something I’d love to learn. Former Aero ME, sans degree, just been kinda or some have said really good at figuring things out.
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I’m very curious what your setup is.
Single Stage I assume? What dies are you using? What method do you use to trim? Are you using the Simple Green wash? I keep hearing conflicting reports about whether or not to crimp. Do you and, if so, what crimp die? What powder are you using? I also assume you’re weighing each charge instead of just doing a volume throw.
Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
Rufus,
I’m not sure that 5.7 is the cartridge you want to use as your introduction to reloading. I’m an experienced hand-loader and I’m looking very carefully at hand-loading for it. From everything I can tell, it’s a finicky cartridge. There are only three powders with published manufacturer loads (which is a very small amount) and the spread between minimum and maximum safe load is small without much margin for error. Most cartridges it kinda doesn’t matter what primers you use, but they can make enough difference in the 5.7 to push a near-max load past the safety zone and into kaboom from what I keep reading.
Unless you have an experienced mentor to walk you through hand-loading for this cartridge, I would very strongly recommend spending a few years getting your feet wet on a different cartridge. 5.56/.223 is conceptually similar enough to 5.7 while, with the right powders, being a lot more forgiving on load data to learn with.
Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
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Thank you for that. Sage advice is always welcomed!
Reloading is not for everyone. Small details overlooked with any caliber can have undesired results. Reloading is definitely better suited for people that are at least a bit ocd Lol. I got my Lee Challenger single stage for Christmas 2021 with plans for reloading 300 blk subsonic. I did nothing but research for almost a year, partly due to the fact that the proper powders I needed for 300 blk were not available and primers of any kind were nowhere to be found. During that time I also ended up researching the 5.7x28 because I had so much fun shooting the Rock. Sometime around Oct/Nov of last year as reloading supplies started becoming available I reloaded my first 5.7x28 I did have some issues at first with rounds not firing but I slowly worked it all out. The single most important tool needed is the Sheradon Engineering 5.7x28 cartridge gauge in the cut away version. It allows you to see what you are doing wrong every step of the way.
My dies are Lee Including the Lee factory crimp die and the Lee universal decapper. I also use a very inexpensive Lee case trimmer that I have modified to make using it much easier. Simple Green and water at 1:4 in a heated harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner for 15 minuets. I made a simple custom drying rack that holds 100 cases and I have several of the red reloading trays. I wont go into detail on my scale setup, but you need a very accurate, repeatable scale to even think about reloading the 5.7x28 Most scales for reloading are only good to ± .1 grain which is not really good enough IMO. So you can basically forget about using the auto measure scale setups, because from what I have read about them they are not that good. I found out early on that I needed to upgrade my powder measure. I went with the Redding competition 10X pistol, at around $225 it was expensive, but necessary. I am very pleased with it so far, if the operator does their part it will throw powder with incredible consistency. The powder I use is Ramshot True Blue, some people use accurate #5 and #7 but I will be sticking with True Blue. I have been using CCI #400 and BR-4 small rifle primers. The bullets I currently use are the Hornady 40 grain V-max in .224 More info to follow.
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As promised I have some chrono info from my Magneto Speed. I have been working on some problems I have had with it since I got it a few weeks ago. I finally realized the cord between the box and the sensor was bad, among other things. I replaced the cord today and got some data that I am confident in. You will have to excuse the formatting, I am not a spreadsheet guy but more of a database guy. Information and velocities listed for Gun B were made today, by me using my personal firearm. Any other velocities listed are from other sources that I have not verified. DISCLAIMER All of the info here was derived by pulling factory ammo apart and weighing components, there may be errors in my measurements. Do not use any information here as valid load data. You have been warned.
Brand: Federal Eagle
Designation: AE5728A
Bullet: 40 grain TMJ concave base
Bullet Retention: Glued
Powder: Flat disc unknown brand
Charge: 4.6 grain
Primer: SRP
Primer crimped: No
COAL: 1.5735 - 1.5820
Gun A: PSA Rock 4.7
Gun B: PSA Rock 5.2 P
Velocity A: 1632 FPS
Velocity B: 1703 SD 16.4
Brand: FN
Designation: SS197SR LF
Bullet: 40 grain Hornady V Max
Bullet Retention: Glued
Powder: FN flat disc unknown
Charge: 4.87
Primer: SRP
Primer crimped: No
COAL: 1.590
Gun A: PSA Rock 5.2
Gun B: PSA Rock 5.2 P
Velocity A: 1709 FPS
Velocity B: 1722 SD 20.7
Brand: FN
Designation: SS195 LF
Bullet: FN 28 grain Aluminum Core
Bullet Retention: Glued
Powder: FN Spherical unknown
Charge: 6.2
Primer: SRP
Primer crimped: Yes
COAL: 1.578
Gun A: PSA Rock 4.7
Gun B: PSA Rock 5.2
Velocity A: 1999 FPS
Velocity B: 2135 SD 10.9
Brand: FN
Designation: SS198 LF
Bullet: FN 28 grain Aluminum Core
Bullet Retention: Glued
Powder: FN Spherical unknown
Charge: 6.6
Primer: SRP
Primer crimped: Yes
COAL: 1.5790
Gun A: PSA Rock 5.2
Gun B: PSA Rock 5.2 P
Velocity A: 2200 FPS
Velocity B: 2231 SD 14.1
Brand: Elite Ammo
Designation: S4
Description:
Bullet: FN 27 grain Aluminum Core
Powder: Spherical unknown
Charge: 6.9
Primer: SRP
Primer crimped: Yes
COAL: 1.590
Gun A: PSA Rock
Gun B: PSA Rock 5.2 P
Velocity A: 2300 FPS
Velocity B: 2304 SD 8.8
Brand: Reload
Designation: SS197 Copy
Description: Reloaded FN brass using info from common sources
Bullet: 40 grain Hornady V Max
Bullet Retention: Crimped
Powder: Ramshot True Blue
Charge: 5.5 grain
Primer: SRP
Primer crimped: No
COAL: 1.589
Gun B: PSA Rock 5.2 P
Velocity B: 1829 SD 22.9
Brand: Reload
Designation: 35 grain
Description: Reloaded FN brass using info from common sources
Bullet: 35 grain Hornady V Max flat base
Bullet Retention: Crimped
Powder: Ramshot True Blue
Charge: 6.2
Primer: SRP
Primer crimped: No
COAL: 1.490
Gun B: PSA Rock 5.2 P
Velocity B: 2095 SD 21.3
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I have a friend who is an experienced reloader who has advised me on what to get, so he can help me at his shop. The small rifle primers were out of stock so he said to buy the magnum primers. But from what you said it could cause problems - Yes/No? Also he recommended True Blue powder and Hornady 35 grain Vmax bullets. Thanks
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Welcome to the forum @airdesigner 
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Good stuff. Thank you and welcome to the Forum.
Yes, magnum primers could cause enough pressure difference to create dangerous conditions.
The spread between minimum load and maximum load tends to be small and pressure signs are notoriously difficult to read and guess, particularly so with the 5.7.
Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
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I had some spare time this week so I processed 400+ rounds of 5.7x28 range brass that I purchased online. I am not sure I will go that route again. Apparently the rough handling of the range brass during sorting, storage and shipping takes its toll on the coating. I doubt I will get three reloads out of this lot.
Going to head over to Echo6 range tomorrow (Saturday) in Galivants Ferry if anyone local wants to stop by . Will be shooting the Rock a lot and a few others.
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what is the going rate for 5.7 brass? tia
That an outdoor range or indoor?
these were about 16 cents to my door.
It is an outdoor range covered 500 yard rifle. Covered pistol paper target range. Not covered steel pistol range. Not covered steel 22lr only range.
Nice.
maybe we should start a thread here 5.7x28 used brass for sale.