I was going to change my trigger out not so much.
Is that normal for the pin to be so hard to get out?
I have a gen 3 glock I can change the frame out on if I have to.
Yes, they are hard to get out.
Are they pressed in? Should I just beat on it with a bigger hammer? Any chance of messing of the frame?
IIRC, they are roll pins, not the same as would be in a factory glock frame. They take more aggressive encouragement, usually. Do use a roll pin punch, though, else you may booger the end up.
I used a brass gunsmith hammer and roll punch to get mine out.
I guess I should have did more research first and spend more money. Lessen learned.
Why a steel roll pin and not polymer like the original recipe?
Also, the roll of tape you are using is absorbing the the force of the blow.
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With the right tools, it’s simple. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve taken mine out
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Same reason p80 doesn’t use a polymer trigger housing pin…
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Benefit the forum and enlighten us why Glock uses a polymer pin and not PSA or P80. the Glock frame is made from a softer material? but then what about Shadow Systems use of standard Glock pins?
New Triggers in No reason it should be that hard to take out!
Glock has molded rear rails… P80 and Dagger have removable rear rail inserts. The forces of recoil require that a metal pin be used to keep the metal rails in place. Plastic would shear off. In a Glock, there is no metal to contend with around the trigger housing pin holes
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Because glock is cheap and end up charging you more…
Thanks for the clarification. I wasn’t aware of that. Makes sense!
I didn’t have a problem with the roll pins. My issue is getting the actual Glock Style Trigger pin out. I beat the hell out of that thing and it will barely make it flush to the opposite side of the frame. Tried left to right and right to left. Fortunately, I was putting in a Ghost Edge 3.5 Connector and 6lb Ghost Trigger Spring so I was able to do all of that just by removing the trigger block, Anybody else have this issue?
Yeah, hard for me to remove the trigger pin too. Even with the whole wiggling thing. You need 3 hands to leverage the slide lock in the correct direction while pushing the pin to get it out. I gave it a few smacks while wiggling it somehow, from left to right in the frame. It’s just the slide lock hole being too small. It’s super precise, which in this case is not that great of a thing.
Ok I found a reddit thread that explains how to get the trigger pin out easily. The issue with the trigger pin is that the spring for the slide release sits in a groove in the pin. So what you have to do is go between the trigger and the frame and push the spring up until it catches and relieves the pressure so you can tap it out.
I took a little figuring out how to apply the pressure just right to get the sprint to go where I wanted it. But now that I have the hang of it I can pop it in and out now problem.
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The spring doesn’t sit in the groove, the slide lock itself does. On an OEM Glock Gen 1-4 with the 3 pin setup, the spring will push up against the top locking block pin. On the Dagger it pushes up against the locking block itself. Works the same way. That upward pressure on the pin/block, pushes the slide lock down with constant pressure. When you push your pin back in, that’s why you can see it move and hear it click once it reaches that groove. The spring doesn’t interact with the trigger pin at all.
Top pin on Glocks have no groove.
Nevermind, I see what you mean from the Reddit post. I’ll have to check that.
Yeah after looking at it, I don’t see it sitting in that groove. Pushing it from that side relieves tension and pushes the slide lock in the direction it needs to free itself from the groove. I think it’s a combination of the hole being too small, and the spring having too much tension.
@hoosemaster welcome to the forums. Glad to have you.
Its more that the spring kinda gets caught in the groovy as its trying to move past. So you have to get a little creative with pushing in one part and pulling in another. This doesn’t seem to be an issue with every dagger. And doesnt seem to affect operation. I was a little worried that I would cause the spring to deform and not provide enough tension. But it works the same as it did before I swapped triggers.
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