You haven’t seen what’s in my head yet 
When the wife finds out how many $$$ you gonna spend. 
That’s why I use a Headspace Gauge, a lot.
I’ve got a go/no-go in every caliber I build.
So educate me, because I don’t understand
If I shoot approximately 200 rounds trouble free, and then one f@cks me
How does a specific caliber go/no go gauge help me predict the future and avoid what happened? Am I gauging the rifle, or each round of ammo?
I get that steel can be unpredictable and cause trouble. But if 99.5% is trouble free, how can I avoid this other than not dance with the devil?
So does that infer that the rifle has issues, and this wasn’t an ammunition problem?
I’m asking because I don’t know
My PSA 300 Blackout pistol has had zero issues running steel. I would expect the same from my 5.56 PSA rifle…
Please explain what I can learn from a headspace gauge
Oh - my apologies. I was not intending to infer your rifle had issues. I was merely saying that I had headspace gauges for all the calibers I build - buying barrels and actions separately pretty much Demands checking it.
And I’m not trying to be an ass with either question, I really don’t know.
Let me peruse the Tube of You and see what I can learn about this stuff…
I have had rifles/barrels with tight chambers, and ones with slightly loose chambers - but have yet to have any grossly out of spec. That’s really all a headspace gauge can tell you - with AR’s and most “ready to install” barrels there isn’t much if anything you can do if you’re outspec - other than contact the manufacturer.
Typically the barrel is set in the adapter, the lug-pin and gas holes have been drilled, adapter pin set. If grossly tight-chambered, you could hand-ream to fit the go-gauge. But doing that to a Nitrided or Chromed barrel is a.) gonna be really hard on a reamer. And b.) probably hurt/cut-through your coating/metal treatment, especially at the throat, DEFINITELY shortening barrel life.
Adjusting the barrel adapter to tighten or loosen headspace at this stage will result in a second adapter pin hole (probably only a few tenths-of-degrees to one side of the original hole) and the gas port hole being off-center.
My use is as a “Trust but Verify” check before ever sending a round through it - that’s the time for getting the manufacturer to Replace outspec product. I have never had any kind issue with any of the PSA stuff I’ve built. Go closes easy, nogo does not. Simple.
That helps, and a lot of that I “assumed”, but didn’t know first hand.
Having never built an upper, or even installed a barrel, a lot of this is new to me. However, you taking the time to explain it helps, and I can kind of put together the pieces. This is only my second AR. Pistol in August of 2020, this rifle in September of 2021. While I have a lot of things down, I don’t know a lot more than I do know. So when I ask, I’m really not being a smart ass. I really just don’t know.
I get that if everything is in spec, assembly is pretty much straightforward forward with some checks.
However with out of spec parts, there’s only so much you can do to make them work. I get that too.
When that round got jammed, I had a really hard time getting the bolt carrier to let go. The extractor had a good hold and wouldn’t let go.
My initial fear was I had a 300 Blackout round stuck and that I really lucked out. That scared the sh!t out of me, because I’m careful with ammo. I don’t want an upper receiver blowing up in my boys’ face.
Finally getting it apart and seeing the primer strike made me feel better…it was pretty easy to figure out what was wrong at that point.
Measure every single piece of Ammo. Period.
BEFORE you put it in the rifle.
Since I don’t own any handguns - are there any handgun owners that could share experiences with mis-sized ammo in Handguns ?
When that round got jammed, I had a really hard time getting the bolt carrier to let go. The extractor had a good hold and wouldn’t let go.
Sometimes the bolt assembly turns slightly, and the “teeth” of the bolt catch on the “teeth” of the chamber. Then force is not helpful.
Sometimes you can finesse it but … I have about 3 uppers that need to have the barrel removed, to remedy a stuck brass/ stuck bolt situation.
I have an old M16 cleaning kit with a 3-pc steel rod. I’m sure it would be better to have copper-coated, but I’m guessing it would still work? Do you have a link to that copper-coated rod?
It’s just TIG welding rod that I used. I have some in mild steel and in stainless.
Have any buddies that TIG weld? Have them get you a couple, otherwise you’d have to buy a 5 or 10lb pack. Unless you can find a weld supply shop with an open or damaged pack that might just give you some or sell it cheap.
I’ll be honest, mild steel isn’t anywhere near as hard as a 41xx series steel and I wouldn’t hesitate using what you already have, except for the fact that you might damage it. (the cleaning rod)
The only reason most welding rod and wire is copper coated is so that it won’t rust.
That is very good information to know. I’ll bug a couple friends for a rod - it might be a good thing to take a class at the local trade school… 
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What?!
It was almost 50° up here today 
Don’t let the snow fool you
