Anyone here running an adjustable gas block on their KS47? I just got my upper in, and have some goodies to put on. I got an adjustable gas block, charging handle and compensator. I heard the gas block might be beneficial to help longevity with the bolt. Any input?
The only advice I can give is to make sure absolutely every part of the gas system is stainless. There’s a lot of corrosive 7.62x39 ammo out there and there’s no good way to clean the gas block and gas tube in a DI system AR.
Good advice! As long as you stay with Wolf, Brown Bear etc., you will be fine. Shooting surplus will cause issues.
No wrong, I ruined a beautiful 41 Tula with Red Army Standard. Brown Bear, Wolf are just importers, and one lot imported out of Belarus might be fine while another out of Russia might be corrosive heedless of what the American box says, you want to try your luck with Century Arms support fine, but they aren’t going to replace your rusty gun. I got 300 rounds of golden tiger that I am absolutely sure is corrosive, the steel cases rust in hours.
I was talking to one of our engineers, and he said that the best way, and the way that a lot of com-bloc countries stopped corrosion was to make sure the gas system components were chrome lined.
I just talked with an expert in the industry. Vympel who is the actual maker of the rebranded Golden Tiger is the exception. Due to Covid their was a shortage of primers. Vympel/Golden Tiger did use corrosive primers, but they said it up front to whom they sold to so that the retailer could pass the information along. To my knowledge no other labels used were known to be corrosive.
I have a Gen1 KS47 that has an adjustable gas block. I highly recommend the front clicker style block. It’s the easiest to adjust on the gun without having to take off the handguard. It definitely reduces recoil. You want to use a standard or reduced power AR15 buffer spring with a standard buffer. You want to use the least amount of gas thats needed to run your bolt carrier group. If you use extra power buffer spring and buffer then, you are working against the gas block and defeating the purpose of it. I highly recommend using a adjustable gas block on all gas driven rifles if possible.
You can use water straight from the hose. Be sure to dry and flush with preferred gun oil.
again, yes, but how do you dry out the gas block and gas tube after you fill them with water? Its one thing to clean the barrel and bolt but cleaning out the gas tube, and gas block and the gas orifice is a problem and on a Direct Impingement system these parts are filled with the same powder residue as the barrel, and if that residue is corrosive, its going to rust, and washing it out with water is great, but now how do you dry it? Feed a pipe cleaner down and hope that it just happens to make all the proper turns to clean and dry everything?
Use compressed air or hair dryer. You might want to check the AK forums they deal with this problem often. It’s a pain to clean no matter what method is out there. That’s why I don’t shoot it maybe unless, it was the last ammo out there and it’s getting close to that.
Interesting! The Gen 2 ships with an ar10 spring and the H1 or H2 buffer I believe. So, you recommend switching the spring & buffer back to a stock ar15 setup?
If you use an adjustable gas block then, yes. You want the bolt carrier group to be as light as possible so it takes less gas to reliability cycle the rifle. This goes for any AR platform rifle as well. A adjustable gas block is the best way to control gas and recoil for your rifle. You can use different buffer weights and springs to control recoil too but the adjustable gas block is the best way. Just don’t use both because they will work against each other.
Thanks, i appreciate the info. I’m pretty new to building these, so every little bit helps!
No problem, been building for a good while. Let me know if you have any other questions or help.
I just ordered the Superlatice Arms adjustable gas block to put on my 8.5 in KS47 upper. I’ll post some pictures and results when completed.
Thanks for that info TX-Jordan.
KS47 10.5" and absolutely love the gun along with all my PSA stuff.
Shot only Tula ammo.
The first extractor broke after about 200 rounds and entire bolt was quickly replaced by PSA.
Broke the second extractor after only 150 rounds (gun will soon be on it’s way back to PSA for resolving the issue), so I’m thinking I might install an adjustable gas block and different buffer and spring.
Don’t have access to the gun right now, so I can’t get a micrometer to the gas block area/ barrel to measure.
Is it 0.75"?
Any recommendations for a particular buffer and spring to go along with it?
It is 0.75, sorry I thought I replied a couple days ago! I have one for mine, but haven’t installed yet. I did notice there are no dimples in the barrel, so keep that in mind. 
As for cleaning an AR after shooting corrosive ammo.
Point the barrel down cover the muzzle flood with water. Water will flush out the gas tube. If you use hot water it will evaporate quickly. Then oil everything. I have owned several 5.45x39 ARs and have never had a problem using 7N6. I recently removed the fsb on one upper that I have owned for 5 years and have several thousand rounds of 7N6 through it. No rust anywhere. AR’s actually survive corrosive ammo better than AK’s. Most AK’s are assembled than finished. It’s not uncommon to remove a rear trunnion and find a unfinished rusty mess.
Sorry for the very late reply, I have been running the Superlative Arms adjustable gas block without issues for months now. I went with the clamp style mount and rocksett the bolts and I can report zero loosening. I use paint pens to make tick marks to keep an eye on the bolts. Buffer and spring are the standard 308 included.
Which adjustable gas block did you choose and any other issues or concerns with it?
Any idea of difference between Gen 1and Gen2?
Thx