Is there a legend or explanation of which parts go with which color bags, in the lower kits PSA sells? Getting ready to build my first one and it would certainly help, no directions in the box. I mean I should be able to ID the things, but I always like to double check what I’m doing with something official.
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Your best bet is to follow a youtube video and only open 1 bag at a time. Make sure you have the proper tools.
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@California_Refugee may have some tips. I don’t think he used any specific ar tools.
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Pretty much what I planned on doing. There is a Iraqvet8888 video that uses the vice to push in most of the pins that seems pretty easy. The trick is to look on Rumble also, since Youtube officially does not allow build or modification videos of firearms, as of 2018.
Edit: My only real concern is the trigger, since most of the videos I have seen aren’t the best at showing how it goes in.
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Just as @GuitarGuy suggested. Watch a video and 1 bag at a time. Before you do it, it seems confusing. But once you begin a video as you actually start to assemble and open bags it’s literally very easy as you go.
Most important is trigger springs and the correct orientation. I’ve even seen another member on here with several builds over his life double check his springs because of light strikes just to realize he had a brain fart and the trigger spring was upside down. I was very careful to pay extra attention on that step and saved a screenshot to reference just to make sure I did it right. But it turned out easy.
For whats it’s worth I have very, very little experience doing this and had no problems with my first assembly. My second one I just told my 16 year old what to do and he did 90 percent of it.
These guys on here can easily get you out of any bind you get yourself into.
I think the simple fact you are aware that you can botch this therefore you are asking questions and being cautious before you start is actually the key to making sure you WILL get it right. Just dont over think it, you’ll be fine.
These are the 2 videos I watched.
As far as tools…
I gathered all the recommended tools and still only used half of them. I’ve never used a vice. Never used the pivot pin install tool (did the “razor blade trick” both times). I never even needed my trigger guard install tool but used that anyways.
This is all I used below.
This screenshot is what I used to make sure my springs were correct. HINT: pay attention to which direction the springs circular section is wound on the trigger and sear spring.
Again, I have very, very little experience. If I did it once and that allowed me to walk a 16 year old with zero mechanical abilities through it on my second attempt and I feel I know enough to explain it to a stranger and assure them that they can do it. That shows how easy it is.
You got this. No color codes required 
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Here are the relevant pages from the M16 repair manual, publication TM9-1005-249-10. Older versions are public domain and can be downloaded.
Here is one source for the PDF file and other formats: archive dot org TM9-1005-240-10 Operator’s Manual.
I used this reference to be sure I had the springs assembled correctly. At least some of the LPKs (lower parts kits) from Palmetto State Armory have the trigger and hammer springs pre-installed.
TIP: assume small, spring-loaded items will fly away and plan accordingly. I hung an old bed sheet as a curtain around my work table to catch flying parts. Laying a sheet on the floor can help catch flying springs. The trigger disconnector spring can be tricky because unless you have it snapped in all the way, it can suddenly let loose. I looped a piece of thread around it the second time, just as insurance.
If you are assembling the buffer tube yourself instead of getting an assembled lower, I highly recommend a buffer lock nut tool. The Wheeler armorer’s tool at PSA is reasonably priced and probably better quality than some of the cheapie brands on scamazon. As best I can tell so far, Wheeler is a rather big name in gun tools, sort of like what Park Tool is to bicycles, if that makes sense.
Also I have some wooden dowels that are good for knocking pins into place. I taper the ends so they don’t splinter. Dowels make good makeshift slave pins for getting the trigger pin and hammer pins in place. I like wood because it doesn’t mar surfaces, plus it can be easily whittled and sanded to the needed diameter.
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Nice basic tool kit. That does look like the Wheeler armorer’s wrench. I have a small c-clamp that I used to do basically what your trigger guard pin press does but I bet the press is easier to use.
I also watch a couple of videos and read a step by step explanation, I think at the NRA website. Gotta watch who you believe on the internet these days.
One thing I did was lay all the bags out on the work table and check to be sure I had all the parts. Once you start looking at the parts, it starts to make sense. Everything is unique, as in there aren’t two parts nearly identical in size that can get mixed up. The detent pins and springs for the front and rear takedown pins are in fact the same.
I highly recommend laying the parts bags out and looking at them to just familiarize yourself with what goes into building an AR platform rifle. For me at least, doing this actually helps demystify the project and allows me to mentally break it down into smaller tasks, which reduces the sense of confusion. If you ever built plastic models of cars or airplanes and checked off all the parts before commencing assembly, this suggestion probably makes sense to you.
And I guess it goes without saying to do the work on an old sheet or something so pins and springs don’t roll away. Also, safety glasses might be a good idea if you don’t wear reading glasses, just in case a small part does decide to fly.
Although I’m sure other people have different experience, so far I’ve found that when something does jump up and off the work bench, it doesn’t fly nearly as far as I assumed it would. I’ve had three or four springs take off and they all were found within a few feet of my workbench.
Oh yeah: if you have a box of wood scraps under your gun workbench, cover it with a cloth so small parts don’t drop in there. (Don’t ask 
)
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Every bag has parts for the piece that goes with it
Bolt catch with all parts to install
Safety with all parts to install
Etc…
I did mine this weekend and made a huge mistake…I missed installing rear takedown pin and put thread locker on buffer tube. The thread locker was the huge mistake because it was way to strong . No thread locker next time I watched the wrong video. I had to beat tube to death to get spring in back, and then another turn to fully cover indent for buffer spring.
Here’s the damage I caused because of that thread locker that worked way to good…
just stake it!!!
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Ooof…
Fwiw, i have never staked a castle nut and have never had one come loose. YMMV, but i like to be able to change things if necessary.
I also prefer roll pin punches to using channel locks or a vice to squeeze in roll punches. Finally, make sure you SUPPORT THE EARS OF THE LOWER/TRIGGER GUARD SO YOU DONT BREAK THEM OFF.
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That first video you link was the exact one I used. Gave me all the info I needed.
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Just did my first one a couple of months back and had the same concerns. Turns out it was so simple I was concerned for nothing. If you have even one iota of mechanic skills it’s not complicated at all. When I was done and all the little bags were empty my first thought was, “was that it, I though this was supposed to be hard?” Just follow along with the first video CR linked below and you’ll be fine.
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Timely info. I have two lower build kits that I am going to assemble after Christmas. Picked up my stripped lowers from the Ridgeland store 10 days ago.
Did you use red Threadlocker? You have to heat red Threadlocker to 500 degrees to get it to release.
180 degrees C is about 350 degrees F. You would have to use a heat gun or roast your lower in the oven to release that “medium strength” threadlocker.
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I haven’t built mine yet, but this seems to be a pretty good how to for both the upper and lower.
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Well, here is the finished product. Only took two trips to the gunshop for parts I lost or busted to do it, but that’s normal.
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Congrats.
Now order more kits because it gets contagious 
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looks good, think ur sights are on backwards
They are (since fixed) and your only the second person to catch that, first on this forum. Congrats.
Edit: I’ve also put on the Romeo 5 with Juliet 3 Micro I had set aside for it.
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