one of the midway reviewers commented that he uses it for break-in. He says he puts it on the trigger links wherever the metal rubs together then wipes it all off after 250 rounds. Clever or not?
I use the grease or paste style lubricants. They tend to stay on, keep it slick even when dirty, and makes cleanup easy on the rare occasion I do any. Normally I just apply new grease and some of the old stuff comes off when wiping it on. My G34 went 12k easy like that.
I’ve had pretty good luck with the M-PRO 7 grease on sliding parts, in the decade-plus since I’ve started using greases instead of oils. It doesn’t dry out in my EDC like a few others I’ve tried. (others may prefer a different lube)
Antiseize is designed as an oxygen/water excluder, plus a sacrificial anode on non-moving assemblies. It’s filled with metallic particulates that will actually accelerate wear if the parts are moving relative to one another. Additionally, the light oil used as a carrier evaporates readily - as it’s supposed to - leaving just those particles behind.
I would not use any antiseize as a gun lubricant.
If it’s two sliding parts, it gets the grease. Everything else gets your favorite oil.
Save your dollars. Anti-seize is not a magic lubricant.
Glock put anti-seize on the trigger bar channel as a “lifetime” lubricant to keep the knucklekeads from soaking the firing pin assembly in automotive products like Mobil 1 oil or gear oil. Automotive lubricants are designed to “condition” engine and transmission seals to prevent leaks and will swell the Glock plastic (“polymer”) firing pin liner rendering the gun inoperative.
All you need, if you store your gun in a climate controlled home is this:
Found for $ 3.50 al you local supermarket/Drugstore. Use sparingly.
If you live in a swamp or sea coast with high humidity use a water displacing anti-corrosive gun oil to prevent rust. If these are not available you can use 3 in One Electric Motor oil or Supco Turbine Oil. Mobil Velocite No. 6 spindle oil, Mobil DTE 732 or Shell T32 Turine Oil are the industrial substitutes for these oils.
That would be a bad assumption on the Copper. Under vibration or friction / rubbing and mix in a little heat the softer metal 9 times out of ten if not more alloys with the harder and the harder parent metal erodes away. Extreme case in point: The rub stops on the Lockheed P-3 Orion QEC side doors made of LP6A nylon and they compress against a forged AL frame. Yet the shape of the Rub Stop and rubber seals for that matter are clearly visible in the frame rather than the nylon tabs eroding away.
I have CRC brand white lithium grease in an aerosol. It comes with one tiny diameter red straws.
Even then, it’s hard to spot apply, I imagine it comes in paste form though and could be sparsely applied. I can’t imagine that its vastly superior to plain old moly bearing grease.