(1) At first I thought since the battery no longer held a re-charge, the new would fix the dead key issue, no.
(2) Then I thought perhaps its my keys are worn so I pulled the master out of the safe, no.
(3) Then I decided to replace that huge fuze block Nissan places against the positive battery terminal, since I had it as a spare since the all get electrically corroded after a few years, and it and the terminals were and required allot of cleaning and terminal replacement. Certainly this fixed the problem, no.
(4) Then I got upset and stomped the clutch peddle to the floor and it started. I noticed this only worked if I stomped or mashed the clutch peddle. Took a look and found that the cheap plastic tab that engages the safety switch had fallen off by design for repairs.
(5) So I taped it up with aluminum tape over a makeshift cardboard tab replacement and works great now until the new OEM part arrives. Total part investment $100 for the battery (needed anyway) and the on had spare fuse block $30 (needed eventually).
So if your key is dead and you drive a stick (manly), check the clutch switch and push tab.
PS Update. If I order the part OEM from Nissan, I have to order the whole assembly. Tiny push button switch, and plastic push tab, grand total $395 ROTFLOL!
Man oh man, auto OEM parts are crazy now. Makes me realize that the Anti-Gunner really missed their strategy. All they had to do was pass a 1000% tax and we’d be way behind the 8-ball. Imagine a firing pin costing $10 with a gun tax of $100! Praise The Lord not the case, yet anyway.
Going through issues now with my '16 (looks exactly like yours, 2nd gen) It threw an 0² sensor code, which I replaced. 2 weeks later I get lean condition, after doing all the easy stuff, I finally figured out how to test my fuel pressure, only 30psi. My new fuel module should be here tomorrow, along with another new starter (which I don’t need, but I can’t find anyone selling just a solenoid) And then there’s the flashing airbag light…
Oh man you make me apprehensive about my Frontier lol. After the last no fraud gaslight election 11/2020, my 16 year old poodle died and my 1992 D21 was on its last legs over 200K. So my countenance was uplifted when my dealership just recieved a 2016 Frontier 4cyl with standard 5 speed with only 34K miles for $16500 OTD. Great truck but not as easy to fix as my old D21 which amazingly still starts and runs. When I wrote the check for the finance guy, he asked me "sir how long do you plan to keep the truck until trade in? I responded "till I die. At which point he gave me a look like "oh your one of those guys. Lol
You got the better deal, I paid the same, but with an automatic & 90K showing on my odometer. And for the exact same reasons. I’m still driving my R50 Qx4 to work it’s at 235K and running strong. I suspect mine came with a week fuel pump, as it’s always been a hesitant starter which lead me to replacing the starter after the battery died. Again I believe all related thinking in hindsight. At 59 my hope was this was to be my last truck. But I’m thinking hard about trading for a V6 SV 4x4 with lower miles. I always pay more than a minimum, I think I’ll have this just about paid off in less than a year. Just put a bumper cover on from a deer strike (I’m sure triggering my flashing dash light, one at a time)
. In the last year; battery, starter, tires, shocks, & now a fuel module should be here today.
My dad an Irishman, electrician and drinker, raised me working on his mechanical projects Motorcycles, hotrods, and trucks. Son he said "there’s only 3 things in life to live by: always take care of your machines and your machines will take care of you, never use dealerships, and never own an automatic transmission which stop working without warning in the middle of nowhere. He was right on all counts but I had to learn the lesson twice about the auto tranny, plus towing, plus nightmare repairs. Working on them is like working on a spring loaded trash can. Lol
What year?
I have a 2005 Xterra, so this info benefits me.
Just a heads up, check your IPDM (the underhood fuse box. If it is white, it will lead to a cascade of problems, one being a no-start). Change it with the black one as soon as possible. It will save you a fortune on sensors and other failures.
Im sure ill have future electronic and CPU anomalies. Case and point, after I paid for the truck I asked for the rest of the keys but the dealer said thats all there is one key, WHA?
So I went to ACE Hardware to have two duplicates made so I could at least unlock the doors. I paid my $4 and the ACE guy said "I need to walk out with you to insure they work the door, but you realize these keys wont start the car right? Oh I know I said, just cheap door keys, ill pay the $300 for a real duplicate later. The door opened perfectly and I said "just for giggles lets see if it starts the truck, and the truck fired right up! Then the ACE guy said, "yeah but as soon as you try and drive off it will stall out. So I drove around the parking lot and came back where the ACE guy was standing and said to him, "Man you cut one heck of a key lol
Till this day I dont want to figure out why, but there is a smaller box sitting on top of the CPU box. And wouldn’t you know a month later the dealer sent me 2 nissan keys eith a note “we found them”. They were completely chewed and ground up with tool marks. Called around and found out the original owner lost the main keys twice and didn’t want pay and used the last valet to hand file some ebay keys. Researching YT found out similar little box on the CPU are bypass security box kit used when people lose their keys, when new keys 2016 cost a fortune. So I just lock my doors always.
Looks like you had a tough May