Share any tips and tricks you’ve got that you think may be helpful for others.
Here’s one I learned a while back: ever have an AR with a little bit of slop between the upper and lower? Ever try one of the red rubber Accu-Wedges and find it frustrating trying to trim them down to the exact size you need? They go from being too large to close your upper and lower to being too small to make a difference at all very quickly.
Try foam ear plugs. Place one against the back of the receiver under the rear takedown pin and close everything up. If the slop isn’t fully cleaned up, open it up and put another on top. They will compress down and form an exact fit, and once they’re in there for a bit will stay compressed and stay in place should you open the rifle back up.
Similarly, if you have an adjustable stock with a little bit of wobble you want to clean up, remove the stock and put a thin strip of electrical tape on the inside. Reinstall the stock and check. It should only take one small strip or two to completely eliminate any extra room that causes the wobble, but still leave enough space for it to slide back and forth.
Another thing I use a ton of is Flitz. It doesn’t seem to be universally known, but there’s nothing better out there for metal guns, with a bit of elbow/hand grease it will completely transform the look of stainless and hot blued finishes. It won’t take out scratches, but will remove oxidation and restore shine and brightness, all you have to do is apply it and work it in with pure cotton or microfiber until you get a heavy black residue on your cloth, then wipe off with a separate clean cloth. You’ll be amazed at the results, a couple times a year I’ll give my wheelguns and stainless handguns a good Flitzing and they keep getting better over time. Once you’ve removed the polish, just do a quick wipedown with a silicone rag or a coat of gun wax and they’ll stay mint.
Don’t use it on cold bluing, though. It’ll take it right off.
Weedwhacker line cut at a sharp angle on one end to make a point and melted to a ball on the other end a few inches longer than barrel,makes a great pull through cleaning tool. Just push sharp end through middle of the appropriate patch,dip and pull.
Flitz and Mother’s are also excellent for polishing up feed ramps and gun internals. Whenever I get a new striker poly gun (Dagger, looking at you buddy ) I’ll pull it apart and polish all the contact points like the side of the trigger bar that contacts the frame, the top of the shark fin, the disconnecter, the striker plunger…makes break in a heck of a lot smoother.
Just a tiny dab of the good stuff on a wool cone or cylinder Dremmel attachment, medium low speed with low pressure, and a couple of minutes here and there.
Same thing on the contact faces of AR triggers and hammers. The “poor man’s trigger job”, especially on the inexpensive mil-spec components. A little polish takes away that “first 500 round” sandpaper feel.
even Wally Mart has it available for shipping online. Some stores actually carry it in stock, but I’m not brave enough to venture in too many stores as the people of Walmart kind of scare me sometimes…it was a lot more fun when they were open 24 hours and you’d see all the freaks after 2 AM.
I’m late as always. But just reading this. Funny because I’m currently using Flitz for the first time and was looking for it locally also. Found mine at ACE Hardware. It’s been doing awesome on a Dagger this week. Mirror finish with a Dremel
I have found that Macguires(sp) Mag and aluminium wheel polish works great if Flitz is unavailable both work great on a number of things I have also polished the pivot points on spring assisted knives to give that same buttery feel that polishing gives to the triggers etc
Indeed. I was sitting in the car waiting for my wife to come out of a bank. Some idiot blasts into the bank parking lot and almost clips her. This clown parks and adjusts his work uniform. He’s the greeter at the Walmart next to the bank.
No gun tips, but gear tips. Got a couple of surplus mag pouches. They were a little gummy inside. Hand washed in warm water/dish soap. Hang dried. Used an absurdly small amount of fine cornstarch to finish. Also, the lever part of ordinary steel toenail clippers was pretty helpful with weaving the MOLLE.
Since I mentioned it above I will also mention my results in this thread.
Overall the flitz did an amazing job on one of my daggers. I think the most important thing with the Polish job is not just doing the trigger. I did all the slide Parts as well. You can absolutely tell a difference. If I put a different slide on the frame that got worked it does not feel as good as with the slide that was worked. In conclusion my opinion is doing a trigger job is really not anything you must do the entire gun, slide and frame.
If this is the wrong place to post I apologize. Just curious if anyone has found a sweet spot for gas block settings on the 13.7” Sabre uppers with the JMac muzzle device? I’m fairly new to messing with an adjustable gas block but I do know ejection pattern is a big key tell. This quad rail(non CHF barrel) doesn’t throw spent casings very far. I’d even say it barely throws them at all. I also have had multiple instances where it would eject the casing but would not chamber another round. PSA left the trigger and hammer pins out of the Sabre LPK so I had some milspec random pins I tossed in to zero/test the upper and I did have an instance of the hammer pin walking out. Would that his cause the issue of the upper not chambering a round(I’m assuming) or should I chase a gassing issue? Just curious if anyone out there running a similar upper has had these issues and remedied them. Thanks in advance.
) I’ll pull it apart and polish all the contact points like the side of the trigger bar that contacts the frame, the top of the shark fin, the disconnecter, the striker plunger…makes break in a heck of a lot smoother.