Dagger Trigger..Look before you leap

This is something I have trouble understanding, especially for actual Glock. A guy spends the money to get a Glock, presumably to get the legendary reliability. Then he changes the barrel, slide, trigger, mag release, magazine, recoil rod and spring, and sights. I get the impression that some people make these changes before breaking in or even firing the new pistol.

Heck, might as well buy a Dagger frame and then put all the aftermarket stuff on that. Total cost would be less and reliability would be the same. I guess it’s okay to discard about 70% of the OEM parts and replace them with aftermarket if he doesn’t complain about the “improved” pistol’s reliability or accuracy.

For a pistol you’ve spent some time with, I can see making changes that you are pretty sure will help, based on your own research. If the changes are cosmetic, well go for it because it is fun. If someone is making changes because he/she believes the pistol will be more accurate or reliable, that’s tantamount to saying you know better than the people who designed it how the pistol should be configured (at least for optimum all-around performance). I know darn well that any new firearm I buy is more accurate than my shooting ability will demonstrate.

Reliability could be a genuine issue at times for oddball brands like Chiappa and similar. I had a Revelation .22 semi auto rifle years ago that was absolutely atrocious, should never have left the factory. The sights were way, way off, and It would misfeed or jam every few rounds. The rifle was nearly unusable.

The front and rear sights were half out of the dovetails to get the shooting at point of aim. Turns out the barrel was crooked, not pinned in straight. The two halves of the inner receiver parts didn’t match up right but some judicious filing and stoning got it feeding reliably.

My point is, you might be able to improve reliability and/or accuracy if the firearm obviously manifests an actual problem due to mis-manufacturing or an assembly error, and you can’t get it fixed under warranty. Trying to improve reliability before you know that’s even a problem, however, I think is oftentimes due to self-deception encouraged by overly-optimistic and possibly deliberately misleading marketing. Likewise for accuracy.

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You nailed it. I wanted to swap the ejector on my tan Dagger for a Gen5 one. Better ejection consistency and no brass to face. Well my ejector was stuck in the housing. Put some weight on it, screwdriver went into my finger. Actually inside.
Then turns out after shooting that gun with the optic on it, it didn’t change the ejection consistently enough to matter. Most still come back and up, or get pushed forward by the optic.
Figured since I’ve shot a Gen5 before (pre breach face cut) that it would do the same in the Dagger. Both Glocks right?
I didn’t do it for reliability though and had shot the gun plenty before that. Just a minor annoyance which I made into a larger one.

@sixpic If you read up, I basically said the exact same thing, but with less detail. I do the exact same thing. The only time I usually see malfunctions in Glocks is when people replace all the OEM internals, usually chasing a 1% improvement that they cant even feel. There are USPSA grandmasters who can, but thats not the vast majority of people. Also, yes, it DOES make the trigger lighter, as it reduces friction. Generally, there are only a few internal components I will change on a Glock or Glock style pistol. First, I’ll add a threaded barrel if it doesnt have one, as I generally run either a comp or a suppressor. To go with that, I run a Wolff uncaptured guide rod as it lets me run different spring weights easily, standard, +p for a suppressor(reduces ejection port pop), or lower power for a comp. They dont mark the springs, so I do with a paint pen. I often replace the extractor with a Lone Wolf investment cast, as i have seen them break. Lastly, on non-micro Glocks I run the Rainier Arms MARS ambi mag release, as, for me, it is faster to reload when i can eject the mag with my trigger finger than changing my firing grip. The rest, I leave OEM, albeit polished, once I have(as directed by Glock), shot the pistol until the factory copper lube is no longer visible, or with a Dagger, about 300 rounds.

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I just don’t like hinged trigger shoes. Personal preference. The stock trigger is fine for what it is.

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As a guy that carries M&P’s, I can say these are not alike! They may LOOK the same, but they definitely don’t feel the same.

this statement makes complete sense… it’s a good trigger, the shoe is the only thing throwing people off

i think they fully release the trigger after each shot and not simply return to the break and why it’s an issue for some as others who ride that wall think hey this is a great trigger

They don’t even look the same. They are FNS9/FN509 styled, having owned both of the guns in the past, before and after the Dagger was ever a thing. In terms of pull the Dagger is a bit lighter than those, but the wall is a little less defined. But that’s a Glock thing in general.