Trigger Replacement

So, here’s a quick tutorial on replacing the Dagger trigger with a Glock OEM trigger. Start to finish was less than 15 minutes, and that’s mostly because I stopped at various times to take pictures.

First, you need the right tools for the job, and this is especially important for the RPW® (Roll Pin Whiners) crowd. Here are the essential tools:

Apex® Armorer’s Block
1/8" roll pin punch
Standard Glock pin tool
Medium weight ball peen hammer

No sledge hammers, no concrete floors, etc. Just the proper tools. The frame mounted:

When removing the pins, I put the block directly onto the bench, not on the pad. Too many people try to use the “roll of duct tape” armorer’s block, a flat punch, and one of those tiny brass-and-nylon hammers, and there’s way too much give on the tape. You have to transmit the force onto the pin, and not let the roll of tape absorb it.

Four medium hits with the hammer, and the pins are out. Not smashing, not “whacking,” just the weight of the hammer doing the work.

The trigger pin comes out easily using the Glock pin tool and the standard “jiggle the slide stop lever” technique, just like an OEM Glock. No hammer, no forcing. The locking block pops right out, and the trigger assembly follows.

Easy-peasy, lemon-squeezy.

Glock folks will recognize the standard trigger and trigger housing assembly, albeit with the hinged trigger.

And here it is with my favorite Zev connector and OEM trigger:

Trigger assembly back in, then back on the block for the rear roll pin. Locking block, and then locking block pin, slide stop lever, and then the trigger pin from the right side. Jiggle the slide stop lever (I always have to move up and forward on these), and then the trigger pin seats with a satisfying “click.”

And then you’re done!

Very easy, less than 15 minutes with the right tools and even moderate skills. Great job PSA on the design and execution.

Next up…rear sight replacement, using a sight pushing tool as opposed to an air chisel.


I would say the brass gunsmith hammer is more appropriate than a ball peen…otherwise good job.

I have to disagree. The small brass gunsmith hammers just don’t have the mass you need, and since you’re hitting a steel punch, there’s no advantage to a brass head. I think the small hammer is the cause of a lot of frustration (and unnecessary pounding).


By the way, a close examination of the Dagger trigger bar shows a slight deviation from the standard OEM Gen 3 Glock trigger bar. Note on the “birds head,” the Dagger trigger bar has a slight protrusion. One might use another term from anatomy, but let’s stick with protrusion. Here it is:

and here it is compared to an OEM Gen 3 trigger bar:

Hey, PSA. What be 'dis?

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I have since learned this dimple was added to the Glock OEM Gen 4 trigger bar to better center the trigger bar under the firing pin safety. Inelegant, but there it is. See? The Dagger is even more advanced than Gen 3.


nice write up. thanks for posting im sure it’ll help a lot of guys.

Nice tutorial…good photos.
This is valuable….and will remain valuable for a long time

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after reading your comment here… it got me thinking… so i pinned the topic for us here in the dagger sub-forum so that it wont get lost.


There was also an excellent post by @mulletguy on how to remove and replace the iron sights that IMO would be worthy of being pinned.

cool. ill go look for it now.

ETA : I looked couldnt find it easily, if you find it, post and tag me in it… so i can stikey it.

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I might have missed it because it looks like GEN 3 & 4 triggers are mentioned. Which GEN Glock trigger is supposed to be interchangeable?

Thanks for any help.

Gen 3


I just changed my Dagger trigger to a Haley Skimmer Trigger and sometimes when I keep the trigger back and re rack the slide it wont click to reset as I let it out. it resets like that inconsistently. any ideas?

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Use an armorer’s plate to check the sear engagement.

Thanks & great tutorial. I too didn’t like the pivot trigger and opted for a split trigger too. I tried out a P80 Flat Faced trigger. Absolutely love it. Crisper brake and short reset.

In case anyone wants part #:


Did you use the P80 trigger bar or the dagger?

I used the P80 trigger bar. It fit perfectly.


Thanks for the great tutorial. I’m a Glock guy, my EDC is a Gen3 19 and I own several others along with P80 & Strike 80. I’ve been following the Dagger since the beginning and like all us, had to wait awhile until they finally shipped. Well I picked up my Dagger last night and I am very impressed with mine. I got the Sniper Green w/threaded barrel and AmeriGlo 1/3 Co-Witness sights and RMR Slide cut. IDK why PSA would use roll pins but it is what it is. I see some P80 design features in it too; the rear rails and locking block are P80’ish. And as you mentioned my duct tape Glock takedown block won’t work with the roll pins, my Apex Block comes tomorrow. Looking forward to my disassembly and doing some polishing and installing a Ghost connector this weekend. My stock trigger isn’t too bad either, pulling at an avg of 5#. Thanks again.