So, here’s a quick tutorial on replacing the Dagger trigger with a Glock OEM trigger. Start to finish was less than 15 minutes, and that’s mostly because I stopped at various times to take pictures.
First, you need the right tools for the job, and this is especially important for the RPW® (Roll Pin Whiners) crowd. Here are the essential tools:
Apex® Armorer’s Block
1/8" roll pin punch
Standard Glock pin tool
Medium weight ball peen hammer
No sledge hammers, no concrete floors, etc. Just the proper tools. The frame mounted:
When removing the pins, I put the block directly onto the bench, not on the pad. Too many people try to use the “roll of duct tape” armorer’s block, a flat punch, and one of those tiny brass-and-nylon hammers, and there’s way too much give on the tape. You have to transmit the force onto the pin, and not let the roll of tape absorb it.
Four medium hits with the hammer, and the pins are out. Not smashing, not “whacking,” just the weight of the hammer doing the work.
The trigger pin comes out easily using the Glock pin tool and the standard “jiggle the slide stop lever” technique, just like an OEM Glock. No hammer, no forcing. The locking block pops right out, and the trigger assembly follows.
Easy-peasy, lemon-squeezy.
Glock folks will recognize the standard trigger and trigger housing assembly, albeit with the hinged trigger.
And here it is with my favorite Zev connector and OEM trigger:
Trigger assembly back in, then back on the block for the rear roll pin. Locking block, and then locking block pin, slide stop lever, and then the trigger pin from the right side. Jiggle the slide stop lever (I always have to move up and forward on these), and then the trigger pin seats with a satisfying “click.”
And then you’re done!
Very easy, less than 15 minutes with the right tools and even moderate skills. Great job PSA on the design and execution.
Next up…rear sight replacement, using a sight pushing tool as opposed to an air chisel.
