I have a PSA complete upper, PSA Gen4 10.5" 9mm 1/10 Nitride 9" Lightweight M-lok Railed Upper - With BCG & CH - 5165449633 to be exact.
With the pistol brace ban, I had a 16" barrel put on, to make it legal, and since then have no accuracy with any 16" barrel I tried. The PSA 10" shot a 3-4" group at 100yds and grouped. The 16" at 50 or hundred throws shots all over the place to the point I have to zero it at 25 with a very sloppy 8-12" grouping.
If I put the PSA 10" back to original, how much torque is needed on the barrel? I want it to shoot as before and hopefully being the FTF issue is corrected I can have a gun that finally works. I asked thi as the gunsmiths I had install the 16" barrels stated all they could do was tighten the barrel nut as far as it could go. Two gunsmiths and three barrel had no improvment of accuracy. I have read it should be 35-50 ftlb and it there is no accuracy make it 80 ftlb. If I take that gun to a more competent gunsmith what should I tell him to torque the barrel to? I dont have the tools or facility at the moment to do this myself.
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35lbs is usually what is recommended. That is with standard barrel nuts. After 35lbs, you torque to the next gas tube slot and you should be gtg.
FWIW, I personally do not own a torque wrench. I go to hand tight, and then torque using a wrench to get things to line up. Make sure you are using aeroshell or an appropriate lube as its usually steel on aluminum.
A gunsmith will probably go to 35lbs and then torque to line up, but I would ask what they do before just giving it to them.
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i hope you get it back to normal. i first tried the psa 16” and its still the most accurate i tried but then i tried the 8” and was really impressed with how similar it actually was
Thanks for the replies. I went through hell and bled money/ammo with this gun. First had FTF issues on the last round, spend time, money, ammo, effort on that. Fixed it by bending the LRBHO wire to take tension off the follower. I use PMags and Glock OEMs and had one stovepipe since then. As for the 16" barrel, well I got beat up in a lot of forums till I realized the brace ban was enjoined, but I spent more time, money, ammo and effort to get this 16" barrel to shoot straight and just don’t want to put any more money into it. I went through three barrels two bolts, two buffers and over 300 rds of factory and my loads and no matter what it shoots 24" off center at 100yds, and about 14-18 at 50 yards. For what I spent on this build, I could have bought a Sig MPX PCC. I use this for NRA ARC and Outlaw Steel Challenge. In NRA ARC we have two 100yd stages on our unsanctioned courses. Every other stage is less than 50 and with 7-25 for the majority of stages.
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do you mind sharing photos of your build? was it all psa or mix and match? mine don’t have LRBHO so i decided to get some fancy charging handles you see on many pcc
It is a PSA 10" complete upper with a Spike’s ST9G lower which has a LRBHO. Here is the orginal before I put on the 16" barrel. Worked great but FTF the last round in the mag.
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Since I had that 16" barrel put on, it went from problematic to scrap. The buffer and other lower parts are from KAK, the trigger is an ALG ACT. I replace the Swampfox prism with a Vortex Spitfire II.
What am I missing. If we are talking about a blow back 9mm AR there is no gas tube.
