I don’t mean to rub it in but you could now get $500 just for the magazines. Not only are the WWI & WWII era handgun mags expensive but several of the rarer what I call “modern” handguns are also expensive. I know that mags for the Sig P230, Sig P225/ P6,
Sig P210/ P49 and the sig P228 have on averge now are over $100 apiece. The sad thing is that if you buy the handgun then you basically don’t have a choice but to buy from an individual or a reseller as the surplus has completely dried up. That is why I always buy a minimum of 6 handgun mags for every handgun that I purchase. If the gun grabbers can’t ban the firearms themselves then they go after the ammo and magazines. I don’t believe that the 2nd Amendment covers ammo and magazines.
If ya need more I can ask a freind…
Or if you want to trade 1 for 1 Hk P7 M13 mags …$$$
My mistake. I have bought several of the rarer Sig handguns in the last month or two and I have been having to hunt to find mags. So with my Covid brain it doesn’t suprise me. Thank you for correcting me. The last thing that I want to do is put inaccurate info on the forum.
The CZ 455 or CZ 457 in the MDT aluminum chassis has one major drawback. Even with an extended magazine release it is still too short in the MDT chassis for anything other than the 5 round mag. I believe that you can use the 10 round mag with an extension in the MDT chassis.
You can’t use the 25 round mag in the MDT chassis at all without major problems. Trying to get your finger into the magwell with a 25 round mag there isn’t enough room to get your finger into the magwell without a bunch of fiddling trying to get to the mag release.
I used various sanding drums and tools that I have to remove a good bit of materal in the front wall of the magwell. The magwell is way thicker than it needs to be so it only made sense to modify it for use with the 25 round mag. The magwell walls around the mag release was ground back to the point where you can now get your finger into the magwell using any of the CZ 455 or 457 mags in it now.
I polished out a good bit of the ground down area. I then used some old Aluminum Black that I had to blacken out the polished area. I need to get a new bottle of Aluminum Black as the one that I have is loosing it’s effectiveness. The Aluminum Black that I had still had a little effectiveness though.
Now it is so much easier to remove all magazines. If you compare the thickness of the sides of the magwell to the front of the magwell that I ground down you can tell that I removed a good bit of aluminum.
No harm no fowl. I did not intend to insinuate that.On a positive note it made me look and I found my p7M13 mags without a date code for 120.00! I only have 3 and I too love to have extra mags. PLEASE don’t take it as a correction.
I think very highly of you and would not want make you feel like that.
Hey I didn’t take personal at all. More along the lines of a friendly correction so that I didn’t put out bad info. I hope that anytime I say something that isn’t accurate that people will correct me or give me their thoughts or reasons. I learned a very long time ago to always listen to and to appreciate other people’s thoughts. As far as I am concerned I also respect and value your thoughts so don’t ever worry about me taking anything personal. So we are good to go.
I have picked up a a few more items for my collection. One is a West German Border Guards Sig P226. Like most of the Sigs in my collection this P226 was made in W. Germany. To collectors the W. German made Sig are preferable over just German made acct there are a lot fewer made in W. Germany. The West German Border Guards were slated as combat troops until 1994. I did a little cleanup on this one buffing out some scratches on the slide and polishing the locking blocks on the barrel to smooth it out. I have ordered some night sights, Armory Craft straight dual adjustable trigger to install in it to improve the trigger pull. I also found a set of factory replacement grips and some W. German Police Akah holsters for it.
I’ve done more than one 80% lower, first time doing a 20%. Had to buy some additional tooling, I needed a large angle plate for the mill and a 1 3/16-16 tap for the buffer tube. I only need one finished piece for a special project I have in mind but I bought four just in case since the blanks were only $25 each. Been waiting months for Cerro to ship out a batch. Wish me luck!
What do they use for forging datums?
I need to set it up in the mill with an indicator and see how true it runs but from what I can glean from the interwebs you average the readings and call it good. The outside of the forging doesn’t get machined so I’m basically thinking to square it, find the centerline to keep it symmetrical and be gtg. I will report back when I have more hands on experience with this piece.
Where did you get those? I’ve been trying to obtain one for a couple of years now, for a “Desk Piece”. Everybody has always been out.
I suspect your biggest challenge is going to be accurately broaching the magwell-corners.
Use code CYBER24 for a discount.
Swapped out the old Wilson Combat DMR barrel that was on my long range varmint AR. The old DMR barrel wasn’t fluted, wasn’t a true heavy barrel and it didn’t have the .223 Wylde match chamber.
The new Wilson Combat fluted DMR barrel has all of the above and it is mounted in a matched billet set of MEGA Arms upper, lower and handguard.
- Gas System: Rifle length
- Length: 18"
- Material: Stainless steel - Type 416R
- Muzzle Threads: 1/2" x 28
- Profile: Urban Super Sniper (Fluted)
- Rifling: 1:8 - Button rifled
- Weight: 39.7 oz.
- Chamber: .223 Wylde
- Feed Ramps: M4 style
- Finish: Matte bead blasted stainless
- Gas Block Seat: .875" x .920" - Dimpled for set screw
A few more steps to the end of my gunsmithing days… a Longslide 1911 I started in college twenty years ago only has two pieces (sights an ignition system) left to order, and I just started filin and fitting the trigger to the frame yesterday.
I went back and ordered four more forgings. $17 and change each with the discount code was too good to pass up. Not like they’re going to go bad sitting on the shelf. I also picked up one of their lowers with the ambi bolt release, I wanted to see how their mechanism worked since I’ve only messed with PDQ bolt catches for ambi before. I like the PDQ but the 80% catch seems sleeker and using a mil-spec catch makes replacements easier to find. Seems like the PDQ rarely goes on sale.
RE: broaching the magwell. I’m going to try drilling the four corners with a small bit and machine the four faces in a scrap piece of aluminum to get the size right and work out the process. If I need to clean it up with a file by hand that’s ok, it’s a one-off piece (actually two or three off if it works lol) so I’m not looking to put these into production. I have some billet PCC lowers that appear to be done similarly so I’m thinking it’ll work.
@Diamondback if you don’t mind would you post some picks of the work on your Longslide 1911? I really would Iove to see your progress. 
Once I get some, certainly. Bear in mind, its slide hasn’t even been MADE yet, and I have a lot of “dressing up” to remove idiot-marks my file work put on the frame to do. Not to mention that I’m trying to polish every “contact surface” between parts as close to glass smooth as I can… and since the Wilson link-pin is bigger than the pin-hole on the Fusion barrel, I’m using a dowel rod as a temporary for test-fitting. Need to order spare link pins and sear pins… these things are as bad as AR detents for being escape artists.
As of now, the trigger moves when the grip safety is pressed, but there’s still occasional binding that for some reason seems tied to the right half of the ambi safety when present. Filing out those trigger tracks was a bear, and I don’t have any polishing tools that’ll fit down in there or handle the front curves unless I start stealing mom’s emery boards…
I get all of that. I wasn’t expecting anything finished. I would rather see the parts because that is the real work hand fitting everything and then polishing to a mirror surface. I have been working on my own weapons for 35 years now and just enjoy seeing others people’s work and progress. You don’t have to worry about me judging anyone’s work. We all know it is a work in progress until you say that it I s done. 
Just wanted to make sure. 
I’ll try to get some pics… the manager at my usual Friday lunch stop is a gun guy and he’s nagging me for 'em too.
Friday update, bought MY OWN emery boards. Now to resolve the “Suspected Fraud” flag on my order at Fusion for sight set and spare pins…
I’m gonna start a new thread just for this project, esp since there are a few things where I could use advice like recoing a hard-chromer. If we have any artsy-fartsy “eye for color” types around here I could DEFINITELY use some help or ideas coming up with a “dark metallic teal” finish since automotive paint won’t cut it, and since this is also going to see an attempt at holstermaking to go with it (thinking a Yaqui-style, possibly start with the Bullseye Minimalist kit from Tandy Leather) I’ll need all the help I can get there too.