Which fasteners for mounting RMR pattern optic?

My Holosun recently came loose on my Dagger slide. I admit I simply installed it using the Holosun provided fasteners, without opening the hardware bag or seeing the little note from PSA.

Which fasteners should I use, the ones that came with your Holosun or the ones supplied with your Dagger?

The Holosun fasteners are much shorter than the ones that cam with my Dagger. The PSA fasteners have a much larger head diameter, snd I don’t know if they’ll fit. A quick fit check shows me they will stand proud of the Holosun deck when engaged.

I clearly need to degrease everything and install again. But should I use the PSA fasteners?

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Use the fasteners that give you the most thread-engagement without bottoming-out or going through the slide. Sometimes, this means shortening-up a few mm.

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Continuing the discussion from Which fasteners for mounting RMR pattern optic?:

I recently ran into the same question, the only supplied screws between PSA and Holosun that appeared to engage without bottoming out and giving the most thread engagement were the short Holosun supplied screws. They engaged about 2 1/2 - 3 complete rotations. Has anyone else found this to be the case?
-PSA COMPACT DAGGER
-HOLOSUN 507C X2
-GG MAGWELL

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I was able to use the long holosun screws on my 407C, which is the same as the 507 except for the reticle options. They didn’t bottom out or stick into the ejector channel for me. They also didn’t stay in with the factory dry loctite. I had to apply vibratite and they held up to 120 rounds about 2 hours later.

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One of the smartest and coolest things Swampfox ever did was offer a hardware pack for optics users. It helps that their gear is pretty good for the asking price.

For $20, you can’t go wrong.

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Thanks for the suggestion, how is this working out for you?
I just tried the short Holosun screws and it was coming loose every 50 rounds or so. The pre-coated loctite didn’t seem to help at all.

I saw a suggestion somewhere else that using the short Holosun screw on the right side (as to not interfere with extractor), while using longer Holosun screw on the left side is a good solution, but haven’t tried it yet.

I used short on both sides. The preapplied loctite is garbage, do not use. I recommend using vibratite over loctite anyway. Holds tight within a few hours of applying, yet comes free when you want to remove it without heat. Loctite is too easy to overapply and get stuck.

CORRECTION: I forgot since I don’t have the optic anymore. I used the long screws. My bad. I had a 50/50 chance to remember correctly and I got it wrong.

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Welcome to the forum @aimfire72 :grin:

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Agreed! The key here, and I speak from my mistakes, otherwise known as experience. Before making any assumptions, try all the screws provided that give you the most thread contact. And if by chance they are to long, do not automatically default to the shorter scews if you know tbey are obviously too short. Take the time to trim the longer screws using a Dremel tool cutting wheel, then dress up the end with a jeweler’s file to insure no cross threading. Doing the job right the first time will save you allot of aggravation trying to undue a mistake sealed with Loctite.

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Great, thanks for the update. I ordered some of that vibra-lite and will try the two longer screws when it arrives. Thanks again for your help.