Anybody know what the correct driver size is for the screws that are included with the RMR cut slides? The hex wrench that is included isn’t great. I’d like to find a T handle wrench that fits. also are the shorter screws they want you to use to attach your reflex sight 6-32x5/16? I have some screws that size that use a different driver size (larger). I have Holosun 508T that I’m using.
The screws provided with my Dagger slide require 2 different drivers. The rmr cover plate uses screws with a T8 torx head. While the optic mounting screws provided use a 2mm hex driver. Unsure of the optic mounting screw overall size. They appear to be 6-32 x 7/16in in length.
Thanks for the reply. the screws provided with my RMR cut slide both seem to be shorter than 7/16". the optic mounting screws were shorter than the cover plate screws. They sent one allen style wrench along with the slide. it would be nice if they would make replacement screws available on the web pages. I’d definitely buy a few. Thanks again.
These star scews for the rmr are cheap af. Already stripped one out.
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I agree. They need better screws, better documentation on driver sizes, and replacement screws available for purchase.
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Any tips on removing stripped T8 Torx screws from RMR cover plate?
I’d appreciate any help!
Hello Rangerscott77, how did your stripped screw out of your PSA Dagger?
I’d appreciate any advice you may have.
Get an easy out bit at Lowes or Home Depot.
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i’ve seen some tricks with stripped screw heads being extracted by putting a rubber band over it, and then pressing your driver bit down into the head of the screw with the rubber band inbetween both the bit and the head, and then backing the screw out that way. the rubber band in the example mentioned above allows you to get enough bite on the head to back the screw out sometimes. being these are so dang small, i dont know if its even possible, but if you have a flat rubber band somewhere and wanna give it a go, its at least another idea, even if it is a far out one.
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Thanks for the help, I’ll see if they make an easy out extractor small enough for a T8 screw!
These screws really are garbage and have completely stripped without much pressure so I’m afraid they are beyond the rubber band trick, but Thank You for the quick response!
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Sorry I never saw this.
I was able to jam a star drive farther down to get it out.
I’d recommend cleaning off the dried locktite and put on wet locktite. The dry LT really clogs up the threads which put extra force on tge poopy screws.
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Magpul trigger guard screws - I always scrape the majority of the loctite-blob off now, for exactly that reason.
Not having this information is unacceptable. I just bought a dagger compact slide with RMR cut out. Specifically, the “PSA SW2, RMR.ECC Slide Assembly.” The screw specifications and red dot mounting instructions were pathetic at best.
All PSA really needs to do to remedy this situation is specify the thread pitch and length of the mounting screw holes with its slides.
Fortunately I also just bought a swampfox liberty from PSA that came with a decent selection of screws. Regardless, I had to find the right ones by trial and error: That can be dangerous as it is an open invitation to stripping the hole threads or breaking off a screw in the hole. If the latter happens, forget about tapping it out
I guess I got lucky that swamp fox had the right screws. The specifications were clearly labeled. If PSA would do the same, it would be a relatively easy matter to match the right screws with the PSA slide mounting holes. This shouldn’t be too much to expect; should it?
Now what about some poor rookie that strips the hole threads or breaks off a screw in the hole. Would PSA be willing to replace or repair it? I’d be shocked if PSA would.
I’ve spent $$$thousands on PSA stuff over the past few years, and avoiding these types of problems by simply providing full specifications should be a no-brainer. Basically, I expect more out of PSA and PSA should do more to protect its reputation by simply providing better specifications.
Sorry if this sounds like a rant because it’s meant to be constructive criticism from a loyal customer. I think PSA should seriously respond to such concerns. Please reply.
PSA does not have a customer service representative on this forum but they do have moderators that can try and address issues or can run this concern up the chain of command if they can’t help out.
Tagging @GuitarGuy
BTW - glad you could figure out the correct screws.
Usually the right screws come with the optic. Additonal screws are for if you use an adaptor plate (not needed if you buy the right cut optic).
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Notwithstanding, why not publish complete specs?
Which screws did you use? I’m running in to that exact problem with my Dagger and Swampfox. The screws with the fox seem slightly too large and I haven’t wanted to force it and strip anything. Thanks
To ctcollinthib and anyone else who needs a little coaching on red dot mounting basics:
Try 6-32 thread. That is merely my best guess since PSA doesn’t say anywhere for sure as far as I can tell,
As for length, put it through just the red dot and see how far it protrudes out. You need about 0.25 inch sticking through because that APPEARS to be PSA’s hole depth. Again, PSA should disclose exact specs.
Next, look into the holes. The one on the left simply stops at about 1/4 inch deep. The one on the right goes all the way to the extractor channel and you can see the shiney bar at the bottom. Three
things you DON’T want to do:
1…DON’T use too long of a screw so that it interferes with the extractor.
2…Be very frugal with loctite; itcan drip down into the extractor channel.
3… DON"T use loctite that has to be heated up for screw removal; heat could ruin your red dot.
Next, start screwing down the red dot. If it doesn’t go in smoothly, its the wrong thread. AGAIN, that’s why PSA needs to supply screw diameter and thread specs.
Then keep screwing it down EASILY. When it just STARTS getting tight check the red dot for movement. If no movement, you’re probably got it right but dont torque it yet because you need to check if the screw is pushing against the extractor bar. Check by depressing the small shiney steel cylinder down and jiggle the extractor bar. Alternatively, you can pop the backplate off, remove the plunger, and look down that channel to see if the screw is too long.
If it jiggles or, alternatively you DON’T see a screw protruding into the extractor channel by taking the backplate off, you are good to apply final torque and remount slide to frame.
BTW torque specs should come from manufactures becase they can vary along with screw size and quality.
If it dry fires, you’re done.
Putting the battery in can be tricky. The internal brass tabs are easily bent. Then the top won’t screw down. So be careful If you do bend a tab, GENTLY bend it back with a small pick.
As for PSA, I still expect screw thread type and hole depth published since not having it readily available unnecessarily frustrates your customers and can lead to damage that can NOT be resolved by broken screw extraction (as stated earlier in this thread).
I realize that Torx bit size depends on the what screws the manufacturer provides and red dot thickness also varies between manufacturer but is usually give or can be readily measured. Knowing the specs for PSA optic screw threads and depth AND knowing red dot thickness, users can correctly mount red dot to PSA slides (adapter plates not withstanding).
Thanks to CallsignWulf for pointing out my error calling the extractor the firing pin .
I’ll try to improve this post as new information comes my way or (hopefully) PSA takes over with more detailed instructions. PSA does have a videoclip for mounting red dots (if you can find it) but it’s not very thorough enough honestly.