Probably because people dont buy according to screws, but instead by optic cut. Pretty common knowledge optics come with screws…
By not specifying thread count and depth, PSA invites f-ups and needlessly frustrate customers. You should understand that. collinthib’s post requesting help is just one example. Such requests are numerous. If you take a look going back you’ll many more.
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@ctcollinthib Welcome to the forums we’re glad to have you !
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Firing pin/striker channel is completely unrelated to optic mounting (on a stock RMR cut Glock/Dagger, Docter cut shouldn’t be any different from looking at them). Left screwhole is a blind hole and the right one goes down into the EXTRACTOR plunger channel.
You can pop the backplate off, remove the plunger, and look down that channel to see if the screw is too long.
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Thanks for the clarification that its the extractor not the firing pin seen at the bottom of the right hole.
I’ll udpdate my post to show this
Thanks. The provided 6-32 screws hit the side walls of my optic (Swampfox Liberty I) and were canted in the screw holes. Went to Ace and got some 6-32 x 3/8" screws with button heads. Worked like a charm. Silly PSA hasn’t addressed this with the Daggers becoming as popular as they are.
re-address?
Wher i tried to use the PSA supplied 6-32 screws, the very large screw heads were touching the battery cover. Why PSA even supplied the that pair of screws with incompatible threads for the holes makes no sense
Because psa does not supply the screws for every single optic. There is no way they can do that. They supplied screws that match their slide and its cover plate.
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Even when guns like a Canik say to use their own screws, I don’t. I use the optic supplied screws. Another reason for this is how the holes in the optic are countersunk. Some have different angles and while an incorrect screw may work, the angle doesn’t match and provide good centering and contact.
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Simply put, the PSA screw threads that came with the slide were different than the PSA hole threads. Why? It makes no sense.
After the first turn , I knew to stop turning. I’ll wager that some people keep tuning till the screw breaks.
Again, CallsignWulf comes through with the right answer.
So PSA sent you screws that were not the right thread patter or the right length? How about posting some pics. They only pull screws from a single inventory bin for their slides, not sure the probability of you getting a matching pair of incorrect screws out of a bin filled with who knows how many thousands of screws…
…the screws I got were two for the cover plate and two different ones for the optic.
If i understand correctly, you tried the optic plate screws (came with the gun) instead of the screws that came with the optic. Therefore, the PSA screws hit the battery compartment on your optic.
Why the rant about specs when you should have just used the optic place in the first place? There is also a youtube video for everything and many companies are now going to youtube instead of including written instructions (cheaper and easier to show).
Thanks but that doesn’t explain it. The threads of the 2 screws with the wide heads don’t match the threads of the holes.
If it makes you feel any better, I had the exact same problem with mounting a Holosun to my Springfield Armory Prodigy.
It’s not just a PSA thing.
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always, always, always use the screws provided with the optic. that said, ive had an optic in the past with the gun i had the screws provided were not adequate to tighten down the sight, so i had to order specific screws offline. it happens.
the screws that come with the slide that hold the sight plate on the gun, are only good to do just that. the optic should come with a little baggy of assorted sized screws and those would be the ones youd use to fit the optic to the gun.
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For small screws don’t use the red or blue locktight. You can use clear nail polish as a thread locker and it isn’t strong enough to hold the screw tight enough to strip out the head. If you just have to use real Locktight the use the purple locktight as it is not quite as strong as the blue.
Loctite 222 low strength threadlocker. Amazon.com: Genuine Henkel Loctite 222 Threadlocking Adhesive - Low Strength - Easy Disassembly - Suitable for All Metal Threaded Assemblies - Glue 50 ML : Industrial & Scientific
Another awsome product that I regularly is Vibra- Tite. VT is a threadlocker that doesn’t get hard. It is a gummy sticky product that can be reused over and over on a screw or fasteners. It has less overall strength than blue LT because it doesn’t get hard but it is gummy enough to keep screws from backing out on my .30-06 Shuff’s Mini-G with a 16" barrel. It is also strong enough for my shotgun holographic and red dot sights. The key is that it can be backed out without damaging the screw heads.
Vibra-TITE VC-3 Threadmate Amazon.com: Vibra-TITE VC-3 Threadmate, 30 ml Bottle with Brush Cap Applicator,Red,213 : Automotive
If anyone is interested I have a good bit of gunsmith tricks and solutions to problems just from working on my own guns or tricks that I learned from my pretty extensive gun, military and LE reference library.
If you strip out a screw invest in a inch- lbs torque wrench or screwdriver type of torque screwdriver. They are your best friend. You can also look up torque settings for different types and sizes of screws.
I had to do that with my Prodigy. Neither the screws that came witb the gun or the ones that came with the optic fit. They were either too wide, too long, or too short. It took a lot of measuring and testing to find the right size.
yeah i wouldnt have thought it with the prodigy, but it happens to the best of them no matter what. so instead of cryijng bout it, i looked at it like a puzzle, and solved it.