Just go shoot the ding dang gun 250 rounds and then if you have issues bring it up.
Too many people on here wanting to start changing out parts before they even give the gun a chance because they heard or read something on the net.
Not directed to any one person, I’m just saying in general. Put down the phone and go to the range and have fun.
Rant over have a great day 
lol right… I was just use to the trigger always coming back forward. The 5.7 Rock I picked up same day seemed to push back forward so that let me more to think something was wrong with the Dagger
I’m going to be honest with you I have a gun I put the Alpha trigger in, and I’m less than impressed with it for the $. I’ve gotten to the point with Glocks and Glock clone where I feel an OEM based trigger with a polish job and possibly a 3.5 lb connect feels 90-95% as good as any aftermarket trigger that I’ve tried. I also sand my Glocks trigger safety flush with the trigger. If you just sit and over-analyze triggers back to back then you may prefer the aftermarket trigger, but at the range they let me down for the money I’ve invested. I’m not a trigger snob though, but I do like a nice trigger. A Glock with any trigger feels inferior to my PDP’s trigger, but for some reason I shoot my PDP worse than any other pistol I own, and it’s a mystery to me as to why. Really striker fired pistols are never going to have the sexiest triggers. They’re not 1911’s or CZ Shadows, but some feel pretty nice and you adapt to them. I’ve gotten used to hinged triggers with the M&P and 509, and so the Daggers Glock based trigger with a hinged shoe feels perfectly fine to me. I feel that you get more value with aftermarket triggers in AR’s and AK’s than you do with Glocks as their improvement is more noticeable.
I’m with you there. I shoot better feeling triggers worse, at least at first. Friend’s CZ P07? 100 yd shot double action second try. Went to SA, aimed at same spot. Super clean trigger, miss after miss. Back to DA and I got several shots in a row.
Most I’ll do is polish an OEM design nowadays. Spend the money on ammo and training, stop dicking around with guns, potentially making them less reliable. The gun works, and is capable of more accuracy out of box than the shooter is. I can do 100yd shots standing with OEM Glock and Dagger triggers, even pre-polish. (And no while I claim this all the time, I’m not going to record and prove it. My friend had a video of it up before but took it down eventually)
Let the parts mate together and break in, shoot more, modify less. The gun will work better and you will get better as a result. Once you get things broken in and fundamentals down, if the gun is still letting you down, then maybe tinker. But don’t mess with reliability and safety. That’s all in the trigger system on a Glock, so KNOW what you are doing. Timney Alpha’s, I’d recommend against for various reasons. Also don’t get a CMC Glock trigger. It’s a ripoff. OEM trigger bar they claim drops the 6-7lb pull to 5-6. It’s just an OEM bar with their shoe, that costs like 150. Note the lighter connectors I’ve tried also tend to get rid of the wall on Glock’s. I purposefully put the OEM 5lb or whatever they tend to come with. The Dagger connector has a really nice wall to it, better than my OEM ones. I’d stick with it.
While the hinged trigger may not be likeable for whatever reason, it doesn’t stick into your finger, or pinch. If you just get over it, it shoots fine. Protip, the hinged trigger also promotes your finger sitting lower on the trigger, providing better leverage meaning less felt weight on the pull.
There’s my $2 worth on the subject.
Wow !!! Please get gun education, and training before operating the gun.
What is your recommendation for experienced Glock shooters when their Dagger triggers dont reset after racking with factory Glock slides?
I would take the connector and very so slightly pull it away ('bend" it) from the trigger housing to create a greater leaf spring effect on the bird beak of the trigger bar. In other words I would create a slightly bigger angle of the connector from the trigger housing. Then test it afterwards.
Are these 80% lowers that require gunsmithing and tweaking? My FFL charged me for background check. Would be sweet if PSA should list these as needing quite a bit of work before they are compatible with Glock slide assemblies. I’d be in for a dozen if they were 80% lowers.
I have dead trigger issues with my Micro Dagger, at first i thought it was me; so far i shot about 100+ rounds thought it. Then i was dry firing it and every 4-6 press it would go dead.
I disassembled the lower receiver and put some CLP on some parts, now it’s doing it every 17-20 press with snap caps.
I seen people recommend to polish some of the parts not only to fix this issue but help the trigger be smoother. Also as cciman wrote pull the connector slighty. Then I’ll take it to the range and see if it worked
Watch Johnny Glock’s videos on Glock connectors. The protrusion matters. Too far in or out can cause various problems.
One of my Dagger’s had an out of spec connector, in the sense that after I bent it into place (done this on many others and they stayed where I left them) it would return too far in after a few shots. Replaced with an OEM one and it works. My other Dagger connector has been flawless and actually has a lot cleaner break than my real Glock one.
I’ll look into it, many thanks
true, Johnny Glock is insane, i truly recommend to watch
imo the glock 34 is the ideal pistol trigger… dagger came with a 34 trigger. on glocks that are not a 34 i put a 3.5 disconnector in it usually ghost or zev (nothing too fancy just the 3.5lb disconnector)
and when using a dagger slide on my glock 19 i still needed to use the glock oem barrel for it to fit… then went and used the dagger barrel in another glock, it doesn’t really make sense tbh, but i swear they are sewing machines
lmao thinking about it, i swapped just about literally every part you could try to between the two pistols except the trigger… honestly impressed with the trigger even learned from it… in my latest 34 build i used a gen3 frame /trigger housing, but a gen4 trigger…
I found the Glock 34 trigger to be worse than the standard weight. Doesn’t have a defined wall and break compared to the standard “heavy” connector. I intentionally swapped my Gen5 34’s - connector to a dot one.