I didn’t read the part about stove pipes. I only saw the first bit and the thread title. The jams are obviously not normal. When I ran Winchester white box earlier this week, it felt a lot lighter than the other ammo. Blazer should still be problem free. I didn’t need break ins on any of my Daggers, but some guns will. Sometimes flukes happen too, even on big names. I mean Sig came out with a rifle that wouldn’t fire when you pulled the trigger, but when you tried to eject a round and clear it after.
Check the gun for any clearance/tolerance issues, friction and stuff. If something is slowing the slide down, that can cause your issues too. Even riding your thumbs along the slide too hard, if you have enough strength. I’ve seen people do that hard enough to jam up multiple guns.
I recommend with any gun, checking the fit and finish of the entire system, dry fire beforehand, and using grease for handguns.
Another thing is I don’t know what model Dagger you have, and what it’s equipped with. Optic cut model and using the PSA supplied screws? Or even optic supplied? Good chance that the right side screw could be going too far down, into the ejector plunger channel, causing it to not move, which causes malfunctions. If the screws are short enough but you liberally applied some kind of locking compound, it could have seeped down into the channel as well. All Glock clones except the Shadow System’s have this “issue” with their optic cuts. They solved it by using a proprietary shorter ejector.
thank you for the detailed reply.
this specific post mentioned other issues but did not elaborate. As I did in others.
No optics, simple lower with a factory slide with threaded barrel and optic slide.
the Dagger Compact is factory new and will be testing again tomorrow with new glock mag to see if that is an issue. I also will run a couple hundred rounds to break it in further to see if this helps. But all said I have bought many firearms the past year or so and this Compact is the only only one I’m not confident in…
Since you’re using the optic slide, make sure you’re using the correct screws with the optic cover plate. If you’re using it. I would recommend it to protect the threads and ejector plunger channel.
My new Dagger did not have the plate installed already, so I assume yours is the same.
Take the backplate off the Dagger, pull the ejector plunger assembly out, look through to see if the screw is sticking into the channel. Then when putting the plunger back in, make sure it moves freely.
If that all don’t do it, I guess you got a lemon. I held a Rock in store before and that things trigger required you to pin it all the way to the rear, and keep pulling for it to finally break. Like a Glock with a bad connector. It happens.
my slide and barrel is out of box untouched . no screws have been touched . i put the slide and barrel on the new lower period…no anything in any way added or touched. I appreciate the help but think about the fact of all you are saying to do and check etc…This is BRAND new , , why is it up to me to become a junior gunsmith for a new item, any new item anywhere? seriously look at all the hoops and things you suggest, all valid and real , if this was a USED item i would jump all over them, FWIW , I did NOT buy a Glock and the issue THEY have is NOT my issue , I don’t own a Glock
Some responsibility is on you to check things, or someone else who knows how. If you don’t and you have issues, that’s what customer service is for. I have given you plenty of things you can check for yourself that could be causing your problems, but you don’t want to check for them. So use the warranty and service the company provides then. Something isn’t right, and you don’t want to find out what, so let them.
And yes you didn’t buy a Glock, you bought a Glock clone, which takes all Glock parts, and all critical dimensions internally are standard Glock. So… You bought a Glock in everything but name.
Last thing I will pointlessly say again is that my optic cut Dagger came without the optic plate on. Because most with one will use an optic immediately. The plate is separate in the package. If you use it without a plate, debris could end up in the right screw hole and jam up the extractor.
Maybe the standalone packaged uppers are different, I don’t know.
Ran the Dagger out to the range today with a new glock mag etc.
after the various issues the first 100 plus rounds I cleaned it , and lubed it, etc, did many dry fires and rack slides to loosen things up.
I feel like I have a real usable firearm now. Over 100 rounds with 4 different mags with 100% function. The brass is somewhat more to the right but still close but only one or 2 in the hat today.
Seems this one wanted a few hundred rounds to get settled in, works for me
I had a “premium” Rival Arms striker break in my Brownells slide with less than 100 live fire rounds, and 300 dry fires in it. Carried it for who knows how long like that. Glad Glock moved away from that thin firing pin design. The Gen 5’s are amazing and I wish every clone would go with something like that. Shadow System’s is doing it now.
10K+ live, and the same if not more dryfire in my G34 Gen 5 and the firing pin is still fine.
The Dagger pins won’t fit in Glocks but it does work the other way around though, so they did something with them. When I tried and dry fired it, the pin eventually got stick in the firing pin hole. So maybe a thicker tip on it, hopefully less prone to breaking? Cause I dryfire all the time without snap caps.
Interesting Kirk’s issue was just break in. I can’t think of any gun I’ve ever had to break in before. I just run em all out of box, even dry. I do check them first for fitment though. My newest Dagger felt a little tight in spots but it ran fine, as did my Taurus G3 when I got it. If it was just break in, then that thing was so tight it was affecting slide velocity enough to stovepipe it.
I was used to my Ruger, dry fired that thousands of times with never a though. Then I got the Dagger, I had to have dry fired it 1000 times before I heard that there could be an issue. Some of that with a laser trainer so that is kind of a snap cap but when I go to the range I usually dry fire as much or more than live fire. I’m thinking about getting a couple extra strikers.
On comment about on breakin period I agree .
That is what had me frustrated with my Dagger, esp with all the positive comments from others.
2 Rock’s, Tx-22, P17, CzP07, Stoeger STR. ALL recent additions and ALL ran fine out of box.
Then this one could not run a mag without one failure or another.
I am now at 7 magazine’s without a stoppage, wish I had more time for more but dark set in.
I never had any malfunctions with any of mine, but I did notice that after the first 100-200 rounds (I wasn’t counting), the recoil spring seemed to settle in a touch, and ejection got a touch more vigorous than it was during the first rounds. I think the batch of ammo I was going through during my early shooting with the Daggers was Power Pistol fueled handloads, 124’s at 1250-ish FPS, which isn’t +P, but is relatively hot in terms of velocity. (Power Pistol at +P pressure tops 1300FPS easily, and 1400FPS in longer barrels).
^ not sure if any of that is relevant to this discussion or not, just throwing it out there.
Every mechanical thing can have a failure. And mechanical things make these guns, so two points of failure in the process can happen. Even big brand’s can have things with issues out of box. That’s why I check all of mine so if there is some weird fitment stuff, I fix it.
In fact, my first Dagger had an out of spec connector, which I found by dryfiring a few times. Fixed connector by bending it, dryfired again and it went back to out of spec. Bad heat treat or metal or something. PSA would absolutely warranty it but I had a spare dot connector laying around, so I went the easy route and threw it in the gun. Works flawlessly.
If you have a bad connector, the gun will get to the point where it cannot even fire. It is worth it to inspect your stuff. I’ve seen others with this issue out of box on OEM Glock’s before. Never had it with mine.
I bought a cheap Rock Slide before (AVOID!!) And the slide metal was so poor that the connector itself was fine in my 80%, but the slide cam itself was wearing a groove in it from the connector riding along it. So it would have the same issue, connector acting like it’s sprung too far out, making the trigger pull harder and harder, then impossible after a few rounds. New product, issues. But they will argue with you on their lifetime warranty, and start making you pay for shipping when it’s their fault.
When I was selling guns, I saw a few TX-22’s come in with the frame molding gone wrong. Gun still functioned, but the frame was all shiny, and had little specs of what felt like “stippling” all over it. Almost like an overspray with spraypaint. Yet my used TX-22 is flawless.
My tx-22 is simply the best 22 auto I have owned in years. Over a thousand rounds and it just goes on and on no matter the ammo or shooter , Ruger 22/45, SW22a all sold after I bought his and more important than anything MY WIFE can shoot it like the Rock, They are so similar in fit and feel she shoots both and loves them.
Curious how a “cheap” Rock slide fit a 80%.
“I bought a cheap Rock Slide before (AVOID!!) And the slide metal was so poor that the connector itself was fine in my 80%” am I missing some type of compatibility
too funny
As you may have figured I am not a glock person so the name was completely unknown to me. Thanks for the help. Now i get a Rock Slide is not a Rock slide… You cant make this stuff up…lol
All in the punctuation. Rock Slide has somehow been around a while, despite their atrocious BBB rating, and terrible warranty coverage. They got some spotlight from youtubers, but I guess they handpicked some decent steel for the slides they sent out to them. I have had multiple warranty replaced, and they all have defects that affect not just function but safety as well.
The whole YT marketing was cheap but good Glock slides. Quickly learned there you get what you pay for. Usually. PSA kinda throwing that off, but in your case you had issues too. At least yours got better with more rounds. My Rock Slide got worse with round count.
I’ve never had this issue with 8 × gen 3 glocks. First one I bought in late '08 or early '09. Most new in box and 2-3 used. My gen 4 does not have BTF either. Is this a newer issue? Not been up on glock discussion forums for 8-10 years. Worked at a range and rented a bunch of glocks without this issue, well used to new in box guns.
My new dagger put the 1st 40 ejected cases on my head or brim of my cap (brand new gun) and I’m not complaining (genuinely curious, 15 years of using glocks and selling/renting them I’ve never experienced this BTF issue). It was odd to get 100% brass falling between my arms aside from one that rolled off my hat, hit my left arm and bounced off my left foot.
I read all your sugesstions and will re-evaluate the gun. The recoil spring is super stiff, ie closes with much authority.
To me this is break in period, from copiously readding all dagger issue threads. The LCI extractor that arrived in the slide does not protrude enough to indicate loaded chamber. I have a few non-LCI extractors in my parts bin and may dig one out. My current thought is the extractor is not giving enough clamp pressure on the case.
I didn’t mean to imply that 100% of Gen3 Glocks did BTF, most don’t. I just meant to point out that some were known to do so, often enough that it got its own acronym.
just watched south park episode “It’s a Jersey thing”