I tried the search and couldn’t find anything specific so I figured I would just ask. If you have a link to past discussion that would great I would gladly read through that as well. Anyway I purchased my first PSA AR 15 5.56 16” about a month ago. Where I live it I have some farms and homes around but I have plenty of room to shoot safely. But in order to keep the noise level down I went ahead and bought an Silcener Co. Omega 300 for my AR. I have never used a Suppressor before I just wanted to make sure I covered all my bases. The Gun Shop I purchased the Suppressor from sold me a Dead Air Mount to get the Suppressor mounted to the rifle. I have gotten the factory Flash Hider off and the Dead Air Mount on. I have put the Suppressor on to make sure things line up right but haven’t fired it yet. Is there something else I should check out before I test fire?
Get an alignment rod. There’s other threads here but they will lead you to an alignment rod first. A pic would help the guys with more suppressor experience to notice something.
An alignment rod would help. You can get them cheap on McMaster Carr (drill rod) or you can alsp use a fiberglass rod for an arrow. Roll it on a flat surface to make sure its not warped.
You may need to add a heavier buffer or spring if you don’t have an adjustable gas block. Also, be prepared for more gas to the face, so dont shoot nose to charging handle. There are aftermarket charging handles that help with this.
5.56 through a 30cal can (that’s what yours is) shouldn’t have any issues.
An alignment rod can help, if you’re paranoid about baffle strikes - but just opening the rifle, pulling the FCG/CH, and looking down the barrel at a light will tell you if something is not-concentric.
I would think there’s a lot of ways to get that wrong.
If you’re staring at it from the chamber end, and you see an “oval” and not a “circle” - somethin’ ain’t right. 
Of course, I can imagine this is irrelevant if you’re using a can with an integral wiper….
Who makes cans so tight that you get baffle strikes even if you can see “free space” all around the bore? And Why would they?
Thanks for the advice. I had read about an adjustable gas block. But being new to this wasn’t sure if I needed one. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks everyone appreciate the advice. I will look into an alignment rod never hurts to be to cautious.
You generally won’t ‘need’ an adjustable gas block (or other methods of gas mitigation) unless you run into issues with the BCG outrunning the magazine lift (yes, it can and does happen).
Your Omega is a standard (not flow through or LBP) suppressor which means it it going to increase gas, which translates into a faster and more ‘violent’ cycling of the action. I’d recommend just shoot it as is. If it cycles fine, check the ejection pattern. If you are getting brass going far forward (12-2) you can mitigate the speed of the action by introducing a heavier buffer and/or heavier buffer spring. Neither of those will remediate gas to the face, but will (generally) handle an overgassed situation.
Restricted gas tubes such as the BRT EZtune can be used for a ‘fixed’ gas system that reduces gas, however, it may take some trial and error to find one to match both suppressed and unsuppressed shooting (restricting gas too much can result in your rifle being undergassed when the suppressor is removed).
Finally, a (quality) adjustable block can be used. Once installed you can test and find the proper tune for both suppressed and unsuppressed shooting, keeping note of what adjustment (often number of ‘clicks’ for many AGBs) to set for each tune. Some, like the Griffon Armament version–who now own the patent to the MicroMOA Govnah–have two settings for simple use (suppressed and unsuppressed).
Field adjustment of an AGB ranges from having to undo a set screw then adjust with a hex key, then reset the set screw (Odin Works and some cheap knock offs), to only needing a small hex key (SLR, Superlative, Aero, etc), to adjusting a finger dial (POF dictator), or a simple hand twist (Riflespeed), to flipping between a few settings (Griffon, AA Gen3, etc).
Thanks for all that info. I may shoot and see whats what. I have a friend that has built two ARs. When I told him about my setup. He brought up using an AGB. So overall I have had a fifty fifty split on whether I should use one.
I appreciate your in depth explanation.
As others have mentioned, an alignment rod would help.
You want to make sure the rod is close to the middle of the exit hole. If it’s touching the side, it means the bullet will hit it, a baffle strike. Youll have to take off the suppressor mount/muzzle device and reseat it.
Any suppressor will adjust the point of impact. If it’s going to be a permanent attachment, will have to adjust the optic. If on and off, will have to remember what that shift will be and adjust aim point accordingly.
Hope that helps