Beginner's Guide to Rifle Scopes: What to Know Before You Buy

So you just picked up a new rifle, and now you're asking yourself: What scope should I buy? Great question—and if you’ve ever stared down a blurry target at 100 yards, you know why a good optic is worth its weight in brass.

Let’s break it down. No frills. No fluff. Just what you need to know to get rounds on target.

First, what are you doing with the rifle? If you buy a Ferrari, you don’t drive it on a dirt trail, and if you’re setting up your first AR or bolt gun, you need to match the scope to the mission.

Home Defense or Close-Range Plinking?

• If your rifle is stored in a safe for peace of mind or you just enjoy ringing steel at 50 yards, you don’t need a telescope.
• Look for a red dot or 1x prism sight. These offer fast target acquisition, are lightweight, and keep things simple. You won’t be dialing turrets or calculating drop—just point and shoot. Some even come with etched reticles for use when the battery dies.
• Brands to check out? SIG Sauer ROMEO5, Holosun HS403B, or Primary Arms SLx 1x Prism. Durable, affordable, and built for real-world abuse.

Hunting Whitetail or Medium Game?

• A good rule of thumb here: 2-10x or 3-9x. Classic, effective, and battle-tested by hunters for decades. You need something with a bit of zoom, but not so much that it’s a chore to acquire your target. Plus, you’ll want something with decent low-light performance.
• Scopes like the Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40 or Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9x50 give you crystal-clear glass and rugged reliability.

Target Shooting and Long Range

• If you’re the type who lives for sub-MOA groups and long-range dope charts, then yes—you want magnification.
• Look at 4-16x, 5-25x, or even 6-24x. But remember: more zoom doesn’t mean better. Mirage, wind, and poor glass will wreck your shot before a lack of magnification does.
• Top picks here include the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24x50, Vortex Viper PST Gen II, and Primary Arms GLx 4-16x.

Sounds like jargon, but here's the deal:

First Focal Plane (FFP)

• In an FFP scope, the reticle scales with magnification. So, your holdover lines are accurate no matter what power you’re on. This is crucial if you’re engaging targets at multiple distances and need to hold for elevation or wind quickly.
• For long-range shooters, FFP is the way to go. It does tend to cost more, but it pays off when precision matters.

Second Focal Plane (SFP)

• In an SFP scope, the reticle stays the same size regardless of magnification. That means your holdovers are only accurate at one zoom level—usually max power. But SFP reticles are often easier to see at lower zoom, and they cost less overall.
• SFP is ideal for hunters and casual shooters who tend to stay at one magnification.

Both are just units of angular measurement used to adjust your scope. Don’t let anyone make you feel bad for choosing one over the other.

MOA (Minute of Angle)

• 1 MOA = roughly 1 inch at 100 yards.
• Most adjustments come in 1/4 MOA increments (that’s 0.25" per click).
• Easier for people who think in inches and yards

MILs (Milliradians)

• 1 MIL = about 3.6 inches at 100 yards.
• Adjustments are usually 0.1 MIL per click (~0.36" at 100 yards).
• Preferred by military, tactical, and PRS shooters.
• Here’s the key: stick with one system. Don’t mix MOA turrets with a MIL reticle or vice versa. Consistency is king.

Let’s talk clarity. If your scope looks like a soda bottle at full zoom, you’re doing it wrong.

What to Look For:

• Multi-coated lenses to reduce glare and improve light transmission.
• ED (Extra-low dispersion) glass for a sharper image.
• Weatherproofing, such as nitrogen or argon purging, to prevent fogging.
• Decent eye relief so you don’t get scope-bit by a heavy recoiler.

What to Avoid:

• Unbranded glass with insane zoom ranges (like 6-36x for $89). That’s airsoft-tier stuff.
• Turrets that feel like you’re turning a soup can.
• Anything without warranty support.
• Brands like Vortex, Bushnell, and Leupold make solid glass at reasonable prices.

Your reticle is your guide. Some are minimalist. Others look like the Death Star’s targeting computer.

Simple Reticles:

• Think classic duplex or German #4. Fast and uncluttered. Perfect for hunting.

BDC Reticles:

• These are pre-calibrated for bullet drop out to certain distances (often .223 or .308). Easy to use if you know your ammo’s trajectory.

Mil-Dot and Grid Reticles:

• These give you precise holdovers for elevation and wind. Excellent for long-range and tactical shooting. Just be ready to learn how to use them properly.
• Some scopes offer illuminated reticles—great for low-light or dark targets. Just don’t crank it up to the max unless you want your eyeballs cooked.

This is where many shooters screw up. A $1,000 scope on a $19 mount? Not smart.

Rings vs. Mounts:

• One-piece mounts (like Aero Precision or Warne) are best for ARs. Easy to install and keep things aligned.
• Separate rings (from Seekins, Vortex, or Burris) are better for bolt guns, especially when you want lower profile.
• Match your rings to your scope’s tube diameter—common sizes are 1", 30mm, and 34mm.
• If nothing else, use a torque wrench! Both "tight enough" and "gorilla-tight" are equally bad for different reasons. Always torque to spec (usually 15-20 in-lbs on rings, 30-65 in-lbs on mount screws).

Not just a fancy word—parallax can throw off your shot, especially at long range.

Fixed Parallax:

• Many low-power scopes have parallax fixed at 100 yards. That’s fine for most uses.

Adjustable Parallax (Side Focus):

• For precision shooters, especially past 300 yards, this is a must-have. Dial the side focus to match your range and keep your reticle dead on.
• Some scopes even mark common ranges for easy adjustment.

A $500 optic won’t help if your zero is off.

Step-by-Step Zeroing:

1. Set up a solid rest—use sandbags or a bipod.
2. Start at 25 or 50 yards.
3. Fire a 3-shot group.
4. Adjust windage/elevation knobs to bring POI to POA.
5. Confirm zero at 100 yards with another 3-5 shot group.
6. Lock your turrets if your scope allows.

Pro Tip: Use a laser boresighter to save ammo. It’ll get you on paper fast.

Here’s the truth: You don’t need a $2,000 scope unless you’re shooting matches or hunting Kodiak bears at 800 yards.

But you also don’t want to be the guy whose zero shifts every time he closes the truck tailgate.

Budget Tier ($100–$300):

• Good for beginners, hunters, or plinkers.
• Look for Vortex Crossfire II, Primary Arms SLx, and Bushnell Banner.

Mid-Range ($300–$800):

• Ideal balance of quality and price.
• Consider Vortex Diamondback Tactical, Athlon Helos BTR, and Primary Arms GLx.

High-End ($800+):

• For serious shooters, PRS, or tactical applications.
• Look at Nightforce, Trijicon, Leupold Mark series, and Vortex Razor HD.

You’ve made it this far—so here’s your reward: the honest truth:

• Even the best scope won’t make you a better shooter overnight. The fundamentals still matter.
• Learn how to mount your optic correctly. Learn how to zero it. Learn your reticle. Learn to read the wind. And above all get behind the rifle and practice.
• Because when the shot counts, whether it’s a trophy buck or steel at 800 yards, it won’t be the price tag on your scope that matters. It’ll be how well you know your system.

So get out there. Burn some powder. And make every shot count.